Navy Nineteen Piece Collection - next 3 pieces

 Here are the next three pieces of the navy nineteen

Stretch denim trousers with belt loops, and a different shape to the top of the pockets.

A different stretch denim used for shorts, these have the standard pocket shape but have been cut off at the knee.

And a pair in a mystery stretch woven (sort of like a bengaline with a jacquard pattern). Only a remnant of fabric so used ponte for the pockets. I've lightened the photo as these are dark navy so you can see the texture - a sort of crinkled elongated houndstooth.

I have some dark navy ponte trousers and a ponte cardigan with pockets cut out as the next two pieces, but then I think I need some tops.

Here are the first seven pieces of the nineteen, with blue shapes standing in for the not yet made pieces.

Navy Nineteen piece Collection - first 4 pieces

Navy Nineteen piece collection  - mostly because of the alliteration, but also for the challenge.

I like Navy blue a lot and find it can work in all seasons in different styles and fabrics.

I must wear my navy pieces a lot as earlier ones have worn out!

More Navy pieces would be welcome in my wardrobe but fairly boring on the blog.

So far this year I've already made a few navy items:-

Navy floral trousers

Navy floral jacket

Navy blue plain trousers

Navy blue midi culottes.

Since then I made some denim shorts and some denim trousers (are they jeans?) which I've not posted yet.

I'm almost done on some navy jacquard bengaline trousers, and I've cut out some navy ponte trousers and a navy ponte cardigan.

Once those are finished I'll have Nine Navy items. But I definitely need some more tops.

Various trousers/pants and a trial top

After the pink cardigan and top I made some pleat front full length trousers in a brown pinstripe fabric, I also made some cropped trousers from a different pattern from the scraps.

I also made some bengaline Bermuda shorts in a dark olive green and some fun ivory and brown print trousers.

I also made a knit top from an old pattern modified (extra length/width) which came out too large, so that will need cutting down and resewing. I used two different brown based scraps for this and it always was an experiment.

So first up here's the ones which use my altered version of New Look 6216 as a starting point.

Full length in a print cotton mix.

Cropped and widened in a pinstripe

Long shorts in dark green bengaline

The brown pinstripe used for my reworked version of Butterick 6947

And finally an attempt to rework New Look 6430 by making it longer and wider and adding a neckband. I overdid this and its far too big. 

So need to find the discipline to cut it apart and remake it!

Think Pink at The Sewing Place.

The Sewing Place has a Think Pink contest in July.

The Sewing Place - Think Pink

The cardigan is the Style Arc Nina.

I made some changes on my last version which worked well so this time I incorporated them into the tissue.

(Alterations  - dropped the waistline at the back round to the front. by about 1.5" at the back and .5" at the front. The waistline sits in a better place on me now. Also altered the direction of the neckband so its cut with max stretch going along the length, easier to ease and gives  great visual vertical line down the front.)

I used four different sewing machine for this (perhaps overkill!). The main seams are sewn on a standard sewing machine and then overlocked for a clean finish.
The outer edges of the collar/peplum are finished with a rolled hem done on the other overlocker and the sleeve hem is done on the coverstitch.

The Nina takes quite a lot of fabric so there was not a lot left, just enough to squeeze out a little cap sleeve tee. No real pattern used here, it is basically a slightly shaped rectangle with a neckband applied.

Here they are together as a little twinset with a necklace, could be worn with any dark trouser.

Wearing a SWAP 2020 outfit

Wearing a SWAP 2020 outfit

Red cardigan, silk tee and black bengaline trousers.

(Excuse the lockdown hair, haircut happening in my garden on Friday)

SWAP 2020 Collection

Here's my final picks from the pieces I sewed in the red and black theme.
I have 4 tops, 3 trousers, 3 layers and 1 coat which can be worn over everything.

Top row (left to right)
Quilted zip front jacket from Prima magazine Feb 2010

Floral print blouse from March 2020 Prima Magazine

New Look 6420 - Silk and jersey dolman sleeve top

Prima Magazine May 2020 Blouse

Style Arc Molly in grey knit

Bottom Row
Black jacquard knit cardigan from Wendy Ward's book 'Sewing with Knits'

Red cardigan from Wendy Ward's book 'Sewing with Knits'

Butterick 3947 pinstriped wool mix trousers

Black bengaline trousers New Look 6216

Tartan trousers with contrast side stripe and waistband New Look 6216.

Far Right
Simplicity 8467 coat with hood (lengthened)

I also made a few extras which I've not included officially in the SWAP but are in the same colourway.

Musical notes blouse from March 2020 Prima Magazine
Style Arc Marni jacket from scraps (won the scraps contest on The Sewing Place)
Viscose and jersey T top New Look 6216
Dark grey bengaline trousers New Look 6216

And of course last year's jacket from McCall’s 7694

So a 16 piece collection in all.
I've had a lot of fun with it!

2nd pair of 'Use what you have' PJs

For this pair I used a remnant of semi sheer shirting in aqua and white stripes, some different aqua lace and a white shoelace for the tie. I sewed two rectangular mother of pearl buttons over the stitching where the straps attach to the front.

This was a shorter length of fabric which had been used already for something else (not by me that I can recall). So on this version the trousers are much more cropped and the top has lots of extra seams and the straps have the stripes in the 'wrong' direction.
For the top I used the simplest camisole from this pattern (a blend of D and E).

And the trousers are old favourite New Look 6216 with the pockets and with the drawstring converted to an elasticised PJ drawstring coming through working buttonholes. This is not on the pattern.

(I have elastic for approx 3/4 of the waist and then stitch 2 lengths of cord, ribbon, shoelace etc, one to each end of the elastic. I make two buttonholes before constructing the waistband, sew the waistband on then thread the whole cord-elastic-cord piece through the waistband casing via the buttonholes. This makes for something which is adjustable, but once adjusted can be easily pulled on. This is my preference for PJs and allows for comfort during tummy fluctuations).

I was very pleased with this pair as it really didn't look like enough fabric but I've managed to get a lovely pair of light summer PJs.

P.S. There is no join in the PJ leg, they are just not ironed!

'Use what you have' PJs

During lockdown I really relished being able to create from my existing resources so although fabric shops have now opened I plan to continue with that approach.

So these are 'use what you have' PJs.

The fabric is a length of shirting fabric, pale aqua with a raised white pinstripe. I have no recollection where I got this but it has been in the fabric stash for more than 10 years. The pale aqua lace I've used as trim was similarly in a box of notions as were the ribbon used for the waist tie on the trousers and the buttons down the front of the top.

The trousers are based on New Look 6216. cropped slightly due to fabric limitations and with the pockets omitted. The top is traced off a RTW top, with lace at the neck and hem and bias bound armholes.

I'm pleased with these as they will be good as summer PJs and used some bits and pieces which have been kicking about for ages.

Dark Grey Bengaline Trousers

I've made a few pairs of bengaline (or similar stretch woven) trousers and they are often worn, so here's a dark grey pair. For these I interfaced the front waistband between the pockets to give a more flat front.

You can probably guess what pattern I used - yes its New Look 6216

As always I leave off the front tie and on this version I've extended the pockets slightly and lengthened the leg. A 4cm hem finish with blind hem stitching works with the stretch of the garment.

July - Think Pink

The Sewing Place has a Think Pink contest in July.
https://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,10372.0.html

I didn't think I had a lot of pink in my fabric cupboard but actually I've found a few, several are overdye results of things which were too orange for me, others were bought as they are.

Hmm would I wear some dusty pink linen trousers? Maybe, but perhaps a bit of a waste of something which is a good colour near my face!

SWAP colourway garments (with new tops)

OK so here's a quick view of the things sewn so far.

If we look back at the rules

Your Perfect Vision - SWAP 2020
11 pieces, in two groups:

• 9 or 10 that may coordinate (be worn together) to form outfits
• 1 or 2 that MUST coordinate (be able to be worn with all of the others)  (1 if you make 10 other pieces, 2 if you make 9)

So I have chosen that the coat MUST be able to be worn with everything else

And that the remaining 10 garments MUST be able to make wearable outfits.

Additionally I want to include the silk top as that fabric was the original inspiration.

And I need to make sure any jackets or cardigans fit under the coat OK, and I won't have both of the animal print tops.

Here's what I have decided to include

1. Coat

2. Red cardigan

3. Black cardigan
4. Black zip front jacket

5. Silk print top

6. Animal print top

7. Grey top

8. Floral shirt

9. Black bengaline trousers

10. Black pinstripe trousers

11. Tartan trousers

Viscose and jersey T top

Viscose and jersey T top - New Look 6216 

This is the long sleeved top that is part of my favourite New Look 6216 pattern (I use the trousers all the time). I cut the front from a viscose woven fabric and the back and neckband from grey jersey.

Compared to the New Look 6420 top it is shorter, and a lot less batwing in shape, but the longer sleeved version has a bateau neckline which I would change in future. The short sleeved version is a different pattern piece and has more of a scooped neckline.
So I think any future versions are likely to take elements from both views.

Silk and jersey dolman sleeve top

New Look 6420 - Silk and jersey dolman sleeve top

I bought this silk fabric on a sewing weekend in London in July 2010. It is the inspiration for my SWAP colourway so I wanted to include it, but in a simple easy wear garment that suits the new normal.
The jersey was in my stash but bought before lockdown from the local fabric shop.

I picked New Look 6420, and initially made it up as the pattern. I then reshaped it so it came in closer under the arms and in the bust/waist area, flaring back out at the hem.

I also folded the neckband over and stitched it down for a clean finish and narrower neckband.
I finished the hems with a baby hem, as a coverhem hem would be prone to fraying on the woven.

I find the neckband on this is too wide and the overall shape rather too boxy, especially at this tunic length. I may shorten it in future, but reshaped it is much better.