Ivory Top Prep cont

feel free to skip over this if you only like to see finished garments!
these are my musings when tackling a new pattern, and some people might find that helpful.
I will also show the alterations I make as I go along as I this might be useful.
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Yesterday evening I rough cut the Vogue pattern, and studied the shapes of the pieces as I did so, plus read through the instructions again.
The next step will be to compare to a TNT and think about what alterations I need to make, and how those might affect other pattern pieces (e.g. facing).

Dress/Top
If I want to lengthen the dress it is from the hem.
The front of the dress/top is a really wierd angle so will have to be careful handling, stitching and hemming it. There is already a centre back seam which should make round back alteration easier to do.
I plan on omitting the back zip.
The fabric I want to use is not hugely stretchy but it does meet the stretch guide on the envelope and does return back to shape afterwards. This is a good indicator that it will be OK.
Since there are two pieces for the front, I need to make sure the forward head alteration is done in the same place and for the same amount on both, and that these two alterations will affect the size/shape of the facing pieces which will also need altering.
Note: these are wedge shaped alterations.
The extensions which make the top into the dress will probably need to be cut off for making the top, so I will need to write on them the pattern number, pattern piece etc so they can be reused in future when I make the dress.
I need to check the sleeve width across the bicep area, as my arms are full here. I may need to do a full bicep alteration (not always needed in a knit). I can either measure or compare to a TNT (treied n true pattern).

The little skirt looks really easy, but really short. They provide lengthening lines though, so before I cut the skirt out (a future project) I will measure a previously made skirt which I hemmed to a flattering length, allow for the hem and the elastic waist and lengthen appropriately by adding tissue into the section.
Note: this will just be a simple lengthening, but from above the pleat detail.

The trousers (pants) have a really shallow crotch both front and back. I will compare to my burda TNT and alter accordingly. This is likely to include more wedge alterations. As with the upper body, I add extra at the back, but sometimes need to remove from the front. I am fairly average height so lengths on trousers are normally OK.

The jacket has a peplum, raglan sleeves and a shaped shawl collar. I am limited on fabric yardage (its an Ikea throw) so may cut single collars using the finished edge of the throw, this may change construction around the collar and the shape of the lower part of the collar.
The waist seam needs to sit on the waist, so I need to check the front and back length after I have done the usual round back/forward head alterations. I have a level waist, but sometimes extra length is needed (not often).
Since this has raglan sleeves I may need to adapt the usual round back/forward head alterations for a raglan pattern. Any changes to the bodice pieces affecting the neckline will also impact the collar pieces which will need altering also.
The throw is a loosely woven fabric not a knit, and frays very badly once cut and handled. So I need to cut this one out immediately prior to sewing it up, so best done when I have a chunk of sewing time available.

Vogue 2989 - first item - ivory top prep

I'm going to make this top as my next project.

I read that the pattern is 'close-fitting' so measure myself to find I am a 16/18 top and a 20 hip according to the size chart. So I shall do a test accordingly and see what needs to be altered in addition to the forward head, round back and grading out to the larger hip. I'm also hoping to skip the centre back zip, but will flat finish the back seam (instead of serging it) in case I need to unpick and add it later.

Vogue 2989 Personal Challenge

I have posted Vogue 2989 before but not made it up. Then I thought to myself that i actually fancied trying to reproduce the pieces on the envelope (though of course in my size (16ish) ).

It is for knits only, and for most of the pieces I can do that from stash. The fabric I planned for the jacket is actually a loose woven, so we shall see about that one. And the one piece of black ponte I have is more likely to be the dress than the trousers. I will have to alter everything so lets see if I can do it. In particualr the top and dress are planned for SWAP, as are the Burda trousers I posted a few days ago. So those will get done first before I move on to the jacket, skirt and trousers from this pattern. Somehow I don't expect to look quite like the Vogue model when everything is done!

Ivory marl cardigan jacket

The ivory marl cardigan jacket is complete. This is the eighth item in the verdigris SWAP and has an optional cowl scarf I cut out at the same time as the jacket.

The fabric I used was a a loose weave textured fabric which ravelled terribly, and needed both the sewing machine and immediately afterwards the overlocker to finish each seam. However it has pressed nicely and works well in this soft cardigan style jacket.

The pattern in the short jacket from New Look 6082.

Spring Black Trousers Sew Along - Pattern

I have decided I am going to use a Burda pattern I have used before for my black trousers.

It is from Burda February 2010 and is a wide legged trouser with slant front pockets and an invisible zip.

I have an ivory cardigan I want to sew first though, so will be another week when I can get to this.

Ivory Stripe Shell blouse

This Ivory woven top is another round necked top from the dartless tee blouse block. It has long sleeves, a bias bound neckline and a la centre back seam to accommodate my forward head, rounded back and sway back.

The stripes are woven bands in the fabric, and the wider sections in between are slightly crinkled. The bands have no give whatsoever so I went for a skimming fit, which looks quite nice on the body but appears rather short and wide when laid out on the carpet and photographed.
There will eventually be pictures of me wearing it, sometime in May!

As ever with simple pieces like this, I hope it will become a staple in the wardrobe as the simple style should work with lots of other things.

This is the seventh item in the verdigris SWAP 2014.

Spring Black Trousers (Pants) Sew Along (March/April 2014)

Hiya everyone, both YorkshireLass and I have plain black trousers in our SWAP plans, but were not finding the impetus to somehow get it done. Plain black is kinda boring.
So we thought we'd have a sew along between ourselves.

If you want to join us you would be welcome.

The timescales are something like this.

March 1st to 14th -  think about joining, find fabric and pattern, make muslins etc
March 15th/16th - start some point over this weekend
carry on working away at your trousers and aim to finish by end of April.



The trousers (pants) can be any style, size and for anyone (though we are making for ourselves) and need to be made of any plain black fabric.

Post pictures of your finished trousers on Stitchers Guild for all to see, any time in March or April.

Ivory sweater knit finished

I've had a lovely evening sewing, and am really pleased to be able to share this little sweater knit top, made out of a very small and strangely shaped remnant. The leftover pieces after cutting out were really tiny!

Given how nicely it pressed, I think its a cotton and polyester mix, but who knows!
This is a great little top and I would absolutely have bought it if I had seen it in a store for sale. It will work really well under lots of work suit jackets as well as go with 3/4s of my wardrobe. Yay!!

Now then.... can you see what's happened here?

The needles are actually piercing something metal....

the hem gauge!

I had finished cover hemming the seam detail on the front and had brought the hem gauge through to pull the threads to the back, when my foot slipped back onto the pedal and the machine sewed into the hem gague and jammed.
After a short pause I managed to tap it firmly to dislodge and then finish the manoeuver as planned. The hem gauge does now have two holes in it and is a bit bent but the machine still sewed OK, though the thread did break once later on.

Anyway I was determined not to be thwarted and carried on and finished the top anyway. Phew.

2 new ivory tops on the go

In keeping with the SWAP colours, though not the original storyboard in detail, I have cut out two tops.
They are both ivory, so maybe the sewing fairies will let me off this once.

The first one is made from an interesting fabric which has alternating 'bands' and 'crinkled section' all woven in the fabric. After much debate I chose them to run across, as I need volume on the top to balance a chunky lower half. This is a very simple design, a dartless block adapted from a book, it has a round neck, shaped back seam and long sleeves (not shown) and just pulls on over the head.

The second one is from a remnant of sweater knit a fellow sewer donated to me in a bag of scraps. At first I thought it was too small a piece to cut a top, so changed my plans and cut out the blouse above instead. Then the problem stewed a bit, I slept etc and then came up with an idea of using some pieces I had drafted for a knit top with a 'cutabout' front. I found the pattern pieces and then had to do a bit of creative single layer cutting, plus only have cap sleeves (not shown), and so came up with this.

The front is made of 5 separate pieces which work best if they are all at different angles. I mostly just went with it and fitted them on the scraps of fabric as best I could and it seems to have worked out well. The back is a single piece but with shoulder and neck darts instead of a centre back seam, which needed for my 'rounded back' alteration.

Neckbands will be done next, a simple bias facing for the top one and a stretch band for the lower one. Then sleeves (I will prehem the knit sleeves on the coverhem machine), side seams, main hems and some of those lovely hanger shots!

It is good to be sewing again even though there are many other tasks which could also do with my attention, I just needed to sew a bit.
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I got a lot of satisfaction out of working out how to get a top from the remnant, a lot more than I do just cutting into yardage. It is bizarre perhaps since I have a lot of unused yardage but still like to play about with the scraps!

More SWAP thoughts - back to Verdigris SWAP

I've been thinking about this on and off today and I want to go with the original - green/black/cream/orange colour scheme (if not the exact garments) and so the navy top is out, and the berries will have to wait.

This was my original plan, and I shall vary it a bit but the overall vibe is going to stay I think.

SWAP thoughts and missing patterns

SWAP is still going over on Stitchers Guild and I am all over the place.
For some reason I cannot find the pattern pieces for a couple of favourite patterns, and although I have searched the disaster area that is my sewing room several times I have not found them.
So that means I would have to use some new patterns. I have plenty to choose from, but they make SWAP harder if you have to fit as well as sew.

I am all over the place on the colour scheme as well.Though maybe either grey or wine could be a good third colour.

So far we have
Green tweed skirt as my 'Sewn before the 26th December' piece. This is from Simplicity 9825.

Then the jacket I made from Style 2514. This is my 'previously made' item.

 Orange dartless woven tee adapted from a block from a book.

Then a dark green corduroy skirt, also uses Simplicity 9825.

Next a cream knit top, which uses Simplicity 2977 with sleeves from somewhere else.

And a navy dartless blouse from the same block as the orange top.

That could actaully be 2 3 PACs, one of jacket, skirt, top and the other of skirt + 2 tops.
At this point I only need to sew 5 more garments and I am done. This would need to be another 3 PAC and two wild cards. If I went with more navy, more cream and then grey or wine I would not be too far away from a workable collection.

Celtic Scarf Outfit 12 (my version of December)

Since I've already used the light coloured trousers with a dark sweater for January, I've switched it round a bit and gone for a similar drape cardigan, worn with toning dark trousers and a contrasting teal/olive print tee and some dark olivey brown dressy shoes.

I think the print in the scarf and the tee play quite nicely together.

The drape cardigan is a lot more drapey, and therefore not a very flattering silhouette. I am considering recutting it somehow to be more like the inspiration piece.

This is the end of my interpretations of the original inspiration outfits. However I still have some co-ordinating garments left to share, and will be doing some of my own versions very soon.

Celtic Scarf Outfit 11 (my version of November)

The inspiration for November is a fabulous gold dress.

Gold is not a colour I wear in clothing (only accessories), so I have chosen to pick up the carnelian with this lovely dress already in the wardrobe,and add a light olive camisole, dark olive boots and a self made olive bracelet.

This is quite a wearable look and I'd add gold earrings and a gold bag.

Celtic Scarf Outfit 10 (my version of October)

The original inspiration outfit

I kept the rust colour but switched it to the top, the added a dark olivey brown wool jacket and gored skirt, plus some great dark brown leather boots and carnelian coloured bracelets.

This would be great on a cold day.

Celtic Scarf Outfit 9 (my version of September)

The inspiration has a great sweater with skinny cords. I've gone more for a rust sweater instead, and more classic dark brown wool trousers.

Accessories are olive faux suede ankle boots, dark brown suede bag and an echo of the rust colour in a bead bracelet.

I really love this look and it is as cosy and warm as the brown sweater and camel trousers in my take on January.
Only October, November and December to go now, and of course I have still switched things about to suit what I have in the wardrobe.
I still have some co-ordinating clothes left over after all of that, so will do some bonus outfits using those pieces as well as time allows!
I am enjoying doing these posts so much, and hope you are too.