Burgundy Frill Neck Blouse.

If you've followed my blog for any length of time, you know I like to sew multiple things with the same thread colour where possible. I really like to have the overlocking (serger) threads inside my garments all matching and to this end have 5 drawers of thread, much of it Coats Moon sorted by colour.

So whilst I had bright burgundy (Moon M0055) on the machines I hunted in the fabric boxes for other fabrics I could sew up.

I found a remnant of a lovely bright burgundy viscose (rayon) with a very slight crinkle texture and beautiful sheen. I had cut other things from it previously, so it was an odd shape and not much yardage. It looked like it would like to be a blouse.

I ironed the fabric and laid it on my cutting board, and decided to try Simplicity 9200 again only to find I couldn't quite get the front shoulder out of the fabric (big funny shaped thing had been cut out). I then decided to move the shoulder seam forwards. So took 1.5" off the front shoulder and added it onto the back shoulder (and left myself a note in the project tray*, so I didn't get confused putting the sleeve in).

Once I'd cut out the front and back, I was able to cut the sleeves single layer, but then realised I didn't have any sections large enough for 2 collars..... After a bit of pondering I cut two collar stands and then cut lots of pieces 2 1/2" wide and varying lengths, which I pieced together to get a strip about 3 times the length of the collar stand. I then seamed the ends, pressed in half, and gathered onto the collar stand as a frill.

Here's the blouse paired with the floral trousers

(* I have two shallow plastic baskets, slightly larger than A4/letter paper. As I cut out I put the pieces into the basket along with any zips/buttons etc I might need. It stops me losing pieces in the jumble of the sewing room)

Burgundy and cream Roses blouse

 

I used some weighty viscose (rayon) from my stash (just a remnant) to make this burgundy and cream blouse with stylised roses from my TNT shirt pattern.

I put all the buttons on but will likely wear it open at the neckline.

It's not really a summer blouse, but could be great for the 'wear red' dress code for choir at Christmas.

Pattern Information.

This is my current favourite shirt pattern. It is adapted from a shirtdress pattern which was in the March 2020 Prima magazine (UK women's magazine).

Burgundy floral wide leg trousers

 Yes a change from blue!

Another pair of the full length wide leg trousers, this time in a burgundy floral. Although I originally bought the fabric for a blouse the colour was a bit too dark up round my face so decided it would be good as trousers instead.

Again these are adapted from New Look 6438 D with an altered crotch curve, slash pockets and an elastic waist.

The fabric came from Economy Fabrics in June 2023.

Blue Jersey Dress for a friend

 

This is anther Simplicity 9473 dress for my friend C, this time in a knit, so back cut n the fold and zip ommitted

Mid blue trousers

I made these wide leg mid blue trousers (the colour was called "smoky blue" when I bought it last summer).

As before they are adapted from New Look 6438 View D. I altered the waistband to elastic and omitted the side zip. I added side slash pockets. These are the full length version.

They make a nice outfit with the print top from last month

Always good to have outfits, as I've found these blue things don't really go with each other!

Blue Co-ord set

I had bought a piece of purply blue rayon/viscose with tiny navy stars from another sewist's de-stash and decided it would make a great co-ord set which could also be split up and worn with plain navy already in my wardrobe/closet.

I revisited the patterns I used for the dark burgundy border print set.

Burgundy border print shirt

Burgundy border print trousers

Shirt is View C without the ruffles.

I did cut out and add the ruffle, but felt it didn't work so removed it and just hemmed the sleeves.

In future if I wanted the ruffle I would either cut it deeper, but still not very gathered or keep it narrow but make it twice as gathered.

Culottes are adapted from New Look 6438 View D. I altered the waistband to elastic and omitted the side zip. I added side slash pockets.

Here's the two pieces together

I suppose I could piece the rejected ruffles into some sort of tie belt.....

Blue Floral Dress

 

This dress is made from a lovely viscose (rayon) fabric in a rich blue which I bought in a charity shop 2 years ago.

The community chorus I sing with have a summer engagement and asked us to wear blue for it. So that prompted me to get the fabric out and work with it. The large scale print seemed best spread out over a dress.

The main dress is from a Prima magazine April 1998, with sleeves from a different dress in the May 2010 magazine, and front ties I drafted myself.

NOTE: Prima is a UK monthly magazine. For subscribers it includes a free sewing pattern. If bought in the newsagent then there is info on how to get the pattern. I have been a subscriber for many years.

It works quite well under the jacket.

Blue Suit

 

I used some heavy rayon mix twill from deep stash to make a simple little suit..

The jacket is New Look 6481 with the hem levelled out and patch pockets added.

The trousers are New Look 6438 with an elasticated waist and front slash pockets added.

Floral Challis Blouse

 

I used Simplicity 9200 with a few tweaks.

I lengthened the sleeves, added a bound slit and buttoned cuffs. I also put the buttonholes slightly closer together and used more buttons.

The pattern does not have you interface the front band, but I did as the fabric is so lightweight.

The fabric was quite tricky to handle. I pressed the fabric, then laid it out on a table with a lot of weights, carefully cutting the larger pieces with very sharp shears. For the smaller pieces I cut them out of interfacing first, then fused the interfacing onto the back of the fabric pieces once I'd made them as straight as I could. I then cut round the interfacing.

For an accurate collar I traced the stitching lines onto tissue which I placed on top of the piece when sewing.

Gifts and Purchases

I recently had the chance to spend some time with a sewing buddy and picked up some goodies for the sewing room.

As always when visiting a sewing friend, we went into her sewing room and she shared with me some things she wouldn't be using.

Large bag of fabric

Interfacing (4 types)

Gold overlocker thread

The next day we went to The Malvern Quilt show where I was fairly restrained, but did buy a few things.

2 metres of stretch denim from Roy's Material World

Some clips from the Quilted Bear

A bag of leather scraps from Remade Worcester

Also (not pictured) some thread and some water soluble interfacing for embroidery.

The next day we visited the local Medieval Fair where I bought some vintage 36" wide cotton fabric from Bernie the Bolt

I got 4 metres, but since it is so narrow it'll be interesting to see what I can do with it.

White turtleneck top

 White turtleneck top

This is the polo neck/turtleneck from New Look 6008 (long out of print) with a high round back alteration.

It'll be ready for later in the year when the weather cools down.

White Core Tee

This is a Closet Core Tee in plain white.

I did the longer length with a sleeve length between the two views. I added the pocket as it looks nice.

I did 1" hems on the coverhem machine.

Should be a good summer basic.

Free T-Shirt Pattern: Meet the Core T-Shirt, our First Free Garment Pattern! | Closet Core Patterns

White Vera Top (modified)

 This is a modified Vera Knit Top with a solid body and sleeves with holes!

I changed the V neck to a scoop, did a high round back alteration and added longer cuffs than the pattern (I find theirs a bit tight)

Vera - Knit top (Free PDF pattern) - Forget-me-not Patterns