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Tuesday, 22 January 2019

Teal print and plain knit top

I managed to cut the front and neckband for this top out of the remnant left from the cardigan.
I placed the strong turquoise motif at the front neck. The neckband came from what was left. The sleeves and back are from a dark teal viscose knit, hopefully the mixed fibres won't be an issue for laundering later. I'm really pleased with how I was able to use up all but the smallest scraps of this pretty print fabric.

However I may not wear the top, cardigan and scarf all together!


This is the scoop neck top from New Look 6735 with the sleeves lengthened slightly. Size 18 with full bicep and forward head alterations.
This is my favourite top pattern of all time, so much that I rebought the pattern as the original was just falling apart.
So I now have 7 teal pieces sewn which has caught me slightly by suprise, though in a good way.
I have a teal lined skirt cut out but no sewing has begun yet! So that's my next project I think.

Teal Knit Trousers

In the pile of teal fabrics I had one of my overdye experiments*. A medium weight cotton knit with a clear right/wrong side seemed too small for anything and a rather odd shape. However once I had space to lay the fabric out neatly I could see one end was cut at an angle but the other end wasn't as bad. I allowed the selvedges (which were just where a tube had been cut open) to fall where they wished and there was enough to just cut out some knit trousers though the pockets have been omitted.
I've used New look 6216 for these.

I omitted the pockets by laying the pocket piece over the front when cutting out.
I changed the construction order to allow me to coverhem the hem flat.
Sew front leg to back leg on the outer leg seams, turn up and coverhem a 1 inch hem.
Sew front to back leg on the inner leg seams. Insert one leg into the other (right sides together) and sew the crotch seam in one line of stitching. sew seams in waistband, stitch one side waistband to top of trousers. Fold and stitch the other edge of the casing, leaving a small opening for elastic. Insert elastic and sew up the gap. Overlock the waistband.

These are very casual trousers ideal for lounging or winter PJs as the fabric is medium weight knit and quite warm. It doesn't have great recovery however so I expect baggy knees and seat may be an issue, however that's fine for lounging!
Here's all the recent teal pieces. I have a top to share next.

*overdye experiments. I enjoy using Dylon machine dyes and will sometimes throw a remnant of fabric in with another dye load, fabrics sometimes go in a few times until they've reached a colour I like. Its been a fun way to take some too bright/too warm/strange colour fabrics and make them work for me. Plain fabrics with high cotton, viscose or linen content can eventually end up as dark teal, dark burgundy or dark chocolate brown, print fabrics are often a lot less successful I have found.

I think this fabric was originally white, and given the depth of colour has probably been through 2 dye loads and is 100% cotton.

Friday, 18 January 2019

PR Sewing Bee Round 1: Sew a Knit Cardigan inspired by the Pantone color of the year - Living Coral

 The inspiration and the implementation.
 Worn open
 Worn Belted
 Back view
 Detail
 Inspiration
 On the dressmaker's dummy
 3/4 shot
Pockets
Kinder Cardigan pattern used for this project.

I'll find out on 23rd Jan if I am through to the next round.

Sew your Kibbe Natural - wearing the Teal Wool Coat

Here I am wearing the teal wool coat I finished before Christmas.

The main body of the coat is in a dark teal wool, with pockets, belt and facing/collar in a slightly lighter teal wool. I've also drafted and added a lining in a dark teal satin which feels very luxurious. It has medium sized shoulder pads.

Here wearing the coat with a hat and scarf knitted for me in previous years by YorkshireLass.
 The back doesn't have much shaping and is brought in by the belt.
The front has no closures but wraps over and ties with the belt. Here worn with a scarf I made in April 2017 and a fun sewing themed brooch I got this year as a gift from a dear friend (thanks E).

The pattern was from the UK women's magazine Prima, which includes a free sewing pattern for subscribers. This was the one from Feb 2015. The patterns are often available on ebay.

Thursday, 17 January 2019

Sew Your Kibbe Natural - wearing the Dark Teal scoop neck top and Tweed Jacket

Earlier in January I posted my dark teal top using New Look 6735, here I am wearing it with the new dark teal trousers. It is intended as a base for more interesting layering pieces like the Tweed Jacket from New Look 6416.

Sew Your Kibbe Natural - Burda Teal Trousers Complete

Although Dr T gives lots of Burda trousers (pants) patterns for the Kibbe natural, I decided that I would sew Burda Style 02/2010 #135 in a dark teal woven fabric for my collection.
I finished them today and here are some photos, including me wearing them as well as the usual hanger shot.

You can't see from these that the pockets form a stay across the centre front. This slightly holds the tummy and stops the pockets gaping, it is quite a lot of steps to sew, but does make the trousers hang better over the tummy.

Notes for my future self. These are size 46, sewn with a slightly narrow seam allowance and an extra 1/2" added to the pocket stay and front crotch to accommodate the tummy. There is also 1/2" in the inside front leg tapering to nothing by the knee.

I replaced the curved waistband with a straight one with a double overlap and 2 buttons. This feels nice and secure compared to just having the invisible zip coming into the waist area. I have found that the zip can fail in wear, at the intersection of the waistband and upper body.

I do wonder if they are hemmed slightly too long as there is bunching over the foot where they are laying over the ankle boot, however then when you sit the ankle doesn't get exposed too much. I already removed their original hem allowance and turned up a 6cm hem.

I used a dark blue invisible zipper as the teal ones were too bright and this blended better.

The fit is OK though not perfect. I'm not going to agonise over it too much. If I tried these on in a shop I would be overjoyed and buy them immediately.

I've now got 5 teal pieces complete which is frankly probably enough, but I have a skirt cut out, a dress planned, also another top and the top which needs light coloured thread, so if I do all of those it would be another 4 teal garments.

Wednesday, 16 January 2019

SWAP Teal (Neutral 1) progress so far





Here's the progress so far with my teal pieces. I've chosen teal as one of my neutrals for SWAP, and as you can see its quite a dark and muted teal.

1. teal wool coat (finished just before Christmas)

2. teal tweed cardigan jacket finished on 5th Jan.

3. teal scoop neck top finished on 10th Jan.

4. teal print cardigan finished on 15th Jan.

Next up the teal trousers which are almost finished and then tomorrow some photos of me wearing all the pieces. The weather is cold and raining with snow forecast so I think the photos will have to be indoors.

Tuesday, 15 January 2019

Teal print cardigan - inspired by Pantone Living Coral

The Pattern Review 5th Annual Sewing Bee has started. I've not participated in this before but a few blogs I read took part in the last one and it looked like fun.
Round 1: Sew a Knit Cardigan inspired by the Pantone color of the year - Living Coral
This initially stumped me, as I've rationalised my fabric collection to my new Sophisticated palette and it doesn't include warm colours like coral.
 But then I thought of some fabric I had planned to use for my teal colourway for SWAP, the blues and turquoises reminded me of the sea, and the organic shapes in the print echoed the shapes of the different types of coral.
I bought the fabric for this on 25th October 2008 from Washable Fabrics on Preston market when four of us had a bit of a PR weekend away. It's moved house 4 times with me over those 10+ years but is finally getting made up!
I've used the Kinder cardigan in the mid length with full length sleeves. I've added in seam pockets, a belt and belt loops. I tried to place the print sensibly by cutting the pieces out single layer.
To emphasize the link with the coral I've done some simple beading and running stitches in shades of coral pink to outline the shapes of the print. I ironed some very lightweight interfacing on to the back of the upper front area to give a little more stability for the handwork without changing the drape of the fabric too much.
Here's a quick indoor shot on the dressmaker's dummy. The detail is more subtle in the context of the overall garment.

To demonstrate fit for the Bee I need to take some photos of me wearing it which might be tricky in this wintery weather. I have got out of the habit of taking photos of me wearing my new self-sewn garments, so need to work out a way to do that going forwards.

Friday, 11 January 2019

Sew Your Kibbe Natural - Burda Style 02/2010 #135

Although Dr T gives lots of Burda trousers (pants) patterns for the Kibbe natural, I decided that I will sew Burda Style 02/2010 #135 in a dark teal woven fabric as my next piece.
This style has slant pockets, a side zip and a narrow waistband, all features I like. And it comes in plus sizes. Yay!

The even bigger plus is I have already traced the pattern, sewn it up and have been wearing the  trousers happily.
I finished them in a bit of a rush (for the SWAKOP deadline) and did not do a proper review, but after a bit of letting out the fit is good and I'm very pleased with them. So I am happy to revisit this pattern.

Thursday, 10 January 2019

Sew Your Kibbe Natural - Dark Teal scoop neck top completed

Dark teal jersey used for New Look 6735.
Size 18, three quarter sleeve as per the pattern.
Slight forward head alteration and a little extra bicep room added.
Lightened a bit, but still hard to see the colour which is a dark rich green-blue (not navy or black).
It is a plain and simple top, but its exactly the colour and fit I wanted and is a fantastic base for the tweedy cardigan jacket, leaving room in the neckline for one of my chunky necklaces.

Here's the teal progress so far.
 Just need some dark teal trousers and I'll have an outfit! (Or shall I make another top first?)