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Thursday 22 September 2022

New Look 6735 Hack.









I used a remnant of flawed border print rayon jersey which has been in my stash for many years. I bought it from the remnant bin at a shop near my old house. It was really cheap, but frankly it was probably a mistake, and I don't buy flawed pieces anymore.

It has come out of the stash for inspection many times and then been put back, but finally the PR fabric stash contest encouraged me to confront the problem posed by the many flaws.

Pattern Used and Changes Made:
I used my TNT knit top pattern as a starting point as I am familiar with the pieces.
First of all I had to decide where I would position the black flowers and I decided they would be more towards the top. I did all the cutting out single layer and right side up to avoid the flaws as best I could.
I started with the front and tried to position the flowers near the shoulders and a stem centrally down the front. I then cut the two back pieces out from different places, using the first one to cut the second to try to get a reasonable placement.
The sleeves were next and had to be shortened slightly to avoid the flaws.
I then had two rectangular chunks left, one floral, one stems. I decided to use the floral for a large turtleneck collar, cut the length of the patterns neckband and as deep as the fabric allowed. Then I cut cuffs from the remaining stem fabric (slightly smaller than the width of the bottom of the sleeve).

Conclusion:
I've finally used this remnant. I'm pleased with the outcome and thankful for TNTs, but have definitely learned my lesson on flawed fabric.

Wednesday 21 September 2022

FREE Harper Knit Cardigan

 


Pattern Description:
Semi fitted cardigan for knit fabrics for any time of the year and any occasion. Offered in 4 different lengths: cropped, classic, longline and duster (below the knee). Finished with simple bands or split hem (duster only). Can be done with short, 3/4 or long sleeve length finished with cuffs or bands. Optional patch pockets. Perfect wardrobe piece for any time of the year.
I made the longline cardigan with long sleeves and pockets.
The instructions say it only takes an hour to make this, but that wasn't the case for me!
This is a free pattern available as a PDF download, if you open it in Adobe Reader you can delete the sizes you don't want before you print.

Pattern Sizing:
A great size range of 0 to 30, and 3 different heights.
I used the Regular height size 16.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are great.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Great size range, free pattern, and a style which is very current (I saw loads on a recent RTW window shopping trip).
All edges are finished with a band of some sort, which is very tidy.

Fabric Used:
Polyester knit from stash with knitted stripes which also have a sort of wave design (I've included a pic). Its quite thin and a bit shifty to sew, so I used lots of clips and pins and stitched on the machine before overlocking.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Other then having the stripes run down the pockets I made this as per the pattern in my size.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is a wearable muslin which fits neatly true to size. My knit doesn't have much stretch and the sleeves are snug.
I was looking for a pattern to use some sweater knit fabric which ravels very easily and doesn't have any finished edges, and I think this could be it, as the bands enclose all the raw edges.
The cropped version could be just the thing as a cover up for a sleeveless dress I made this summer.

Conclusion:
A really great pattern, and its free!

This is the FREE Harper Knit Cardigan.

Here's the sweater knit version




Thursday 15 September 2022

Wednesday 14 September 2022

Ivory blouse with tie





I thought New Look 6225 was worth another try. I found my previous version was rather plain, and a bit too open at the neck.

I lengthened the sleeves by about 1.25".

I cut the bias neckband 2 inches wide, shortened it by about 4 inches (compared to the original pattern piece) and then quartered it and attached it more like a knit neckband. For the cuffs I again cut 2" wide bias pieces, this time slightly shorter than the sleeve width, I slightly gathered the bottom of the sleeve and then attached it to the longer band (compared to the pattern piece), then ran elastic through the casing and stitched up the sleeve seam.

I also added shoulder tabs stitched down with a button, and a bias tab at the back neck.

I used the remainder of the 2 yard piece to cut a sort of sash with pointed ends which can be used as tie at the neck (either through the loops, or not) or as a belt.

I think the neckline is a little problematic in this pattern, I think I'll add some back neckline darts to my next version.

Thursday 8 September 2022

New Look 6008 Turtleneck

 Dark teal viscose jersey turtleneck top with long sleeves


I'm sure the pattern is from the 1990s, but the shaping on the top is absolutely lovely.




Monday 5 September 2022

Three piece Autumn set

 I've just finished a 3 piece set for Autumn

McCall's 6844 cardigan



Simplicity 1467 Trousers (with secret extra zipped pocket)



And New Look 6735 top, with a slightly raised neckline, slightly lengthened sleeve and cuffs!


I'm not sure about the gold in the print so may try to over dye it aqua.

They work very well together.

Saturday 3 September 2022

Burgundy Jeans


Updated to show me wearing them



I don't know why I waited so long, but I've just finished a pair of Mountain View Jeans in a distressed burgundy stretch denim. It is a lovely soft fabric with 25% stretch and the resulting jeans are really comfortable.

The pattern used is the Itch to Stitch Mountain View Pull-on Jeans.

I made the size 16. To accommodate my large derriere and long back rise I made a few alterations to the back.
1. Extended the back crotch by 3/8"
2. Added a 5/8" wedge in the centre of the back rise
3. Reshaped the back crotch into more of an L shape with a little scooping.
4. Added 3/8" to the top of the back yoke.

Each change was small so as to avoid distortion, but the resulting jeans are really comfortable for me.

I cut the pockets from the same fabric and used two reels of thread threaded as one in a Jeans needle for the topstitching. I have two sewing machines, so used one for the topstitching and the other for the normal sewing. All the thread was a slightly darker burgundy, so the topstitching details are quite subtle.

Friday 2 September 2022

Scooped neck print tee

Top from old favourite NL6735.



I was careful to avoid the pink flowers being in unfortunate locations on the front.



Here's how my navy, grey green, pink and soft white summer wardrobe is looking now.




Thursday 1 September 2022

Dark Olive Bucket Hat

Dark olive bucket hat, using Simplicity 7932.

Made mine reversible, dirty denim one side and raincoat fabric the other side.