Mid blue trousers

I made these wide leg mid blue trousers (the colour was called "smoky blue" when I bought it last summer).

As before they are adapted from New Look 6438 View D. I altered the waistband to elastic and omitted the side zip. I added side slash pockets. These are the full length version.

They make a nice outfit with the print top from last month

Always good to have outfits, as I've found these blue things don't really go with each other!

Blue Co-ord set

I had bought a piece of purply blue rayon/viscose with tiny navy stars from another sewist's de-stash and decided it would make a great co-ord set which could also be split up and worn with plain navy already in my wardrobe/closet.

I revisited the patterns I used for the dark burgundy border print set.

Burgundy border print shirt

Burgundy border print trousers

Shirt is Simplicity 9200 View C without the ruffles.

I did cut out and add the ruffle, but felt it didn't work so removed it and just hemmed the sleeves.

In future if I wanted the ruffle I would either cut it deeper, but still not very gathered or keep it narrow but make it twice as gathered.

Culottes are adapted from New Look 6438 View D. I altered the waistband to elastic and omitted the side zip. I added side slash pockets.

Here's the two pieces together

I suppose I could piece the rejected ruffles into some sort of tie belt.....

Blue Floral Dress

 

This dress is made from a lovely viscose (rayon) fabric in a rich blue which I bought in a charity shop 2 years ago.

The community chorus I sing with have a summer engagement and asked us to wear blue for it. So that prompted me to get the fabric out and work with it. The large scale print seemed best spread out over a dress.

The main dress is from a Prima magazine April 1998, with sleeves from a different dress in the May 2010 magazine, and front ties I drafted myself.

NOTE: Prima is a UK monthly magazine. For subscribers it includes a free sewing pattern. If bought in the newsagent then there is info on how to get the pattern. I have been a subscriber for many years.

It works quite well under the jacket.

Blue Suit

 

I used some heavy rayon mix twill from deep stash to make a simple little suit..

The jacket is New Look 6481 with the hem levelled out and patch pockets added.

The trousers are New Look 6438 with an elasticated waist and front slash pockets added.

Blue and white striped top

 

A long sleeved stripe tee made from a remnant my mum passed to me (she's more a knitter these days).

This is the polo neck/turtleneck from New Look 6008 (long our of print) with the neck band cut out the same length but only 2" tall. I did a 1" hem on the coverhem machine.

Brocade Waistcoat

 

This is a blue and gold waistcoat made for a friend 'A', husband to the lady with the frilled white shirts (S) and father of 'C'. It's for C's steampunk themed wedding.

'A' had been to a very traditional menswear shop and bought dark trousers, a white winged collar shirt and dark jacket with blue checks. He'd also got a wonderful steampunk hat and goggles.

He wanted a waistcoat to finish off the look, dressy enough for father of the bride, steampunky enough for the theme but also in keeping with his own style.

Fitting

I found a simple waistcoat pattern in my stash and made a fitting toile with contrast stitching marking the seams and centre front. 'A' tried this on and it did not meet at centre front. So we measured the distance between the centre front markings at several points and I wrote them down. He also asked for it to be slightly longer.

Fabric

Originally 'A's elderly mother was to make the waistcoat, however she is too ill to do so. However she still wanted to be involved and had provided some fabrics from her stash which were not suitable and a pattern in too small a size. 'S' had tried to source some fabric from local shops but had no luck. So we headed out to my fabric resources (plastic tubs in the garage) to see what I might have. In the end the only fabric deemed suitable was a piece of blue and gold brocade, with a label in Thai script, striped ends and fringe. (Anyone know what this is - I'm guessing a 1980s tourist keepsake of some sort - shawl/table runner?)

I thought it'd be fine for two waistcoat fronts (more on that later). We agreed to use some gold satin from 'A's mum's stash for the lining and back, and the blue side of the brocade.

Additions

A asked for pockets for his pocket watch (which we decided to use from his mum's pattern) and chose some buttons from my drawer. He also wanted a matching bowtie.

Alterations

After he had gone I altered the pattern. I added 1 inch length to the front and back at the lengthen and shorten line. I then attempted a 'portly gentleman' alteration by adding extra to the front at the sides so the centre front would remain on grain and button up properly. 

Layout

I then tried to layout the waistcoat fronts on the fabric. However it was only 18 inches (46cm wide) and less than 2 yards (175cm) long, with a border along one long edge and striped sections each end. I couldn't make it fit! 

Next I decided to split the fronts into 2 pieces, through the pocket area, to see if I could get the smaller pieces out of the fabric. For this I created mirror image pieces so I could layout all 4 pieces at once. They did not fit.

I then decided to use the striped section at each end for the side panels and cut the fronts from the centre section. I was able to make this fit, plus cut out the pocket welts and the pieces for the bowtie.

Fronts

I auditioned the striped sections - yellow and blue side up (I felt the yellow was a little gaudy) or gold side up (which I preferred).

Pockets

I did a lot of careful measuring and marking, more measuring, checking and some unpicking. I took it very slowly and kept checking because I had no more fabric, it's for someone else, and for a wedding. I definitely felt the pressure to do it right. Although I've done welt pockets before they were of the type where the welt is inside the slot. These ones had an external flap with shaped ends and a shaped pocket.

I made a few mistakes and kept the seam ripper handy. I left the pockets overnight before I cut the holes through the fronts. Eventually I had finished the pockets.

Other Construction

I had a rest after the pockets were done and came back to it the next day. Then I made up the back with back belt and the lining, sewed together leaving the side seams open, trimmed, snipped curves, turned through and pressed. I sewed up the side seams as far as I was able and finished the small gap in the lining with hand stitching. 

Buttonholes

I did a couple of tests, then marked and made buttonholes, carefully fray checking before cutting open. I sewed the buttons on by hand.

Bowtie

 

I made an elasticated bowtie from the gold side of the fabric using a pattern and instructions I found free online.

Final Outcome

I don't have a photo of A in his waistcoat but he was delighted with it and dressed up for us in the entire outfit

This has been an exhausting project for me and I have not sewn anything since I finished it

- the fabrics were difficult to work with, slippery and prone to fraying.

- I'm not very experienced with menswear

- I've never done this sort of welt pocket before

- It needed to be right as I couldn't get more fabric

Skirt Suit for a Friend

 I've done some more sewing for my friend C. She really likes blue.

This blue tee is based on Simplicity 8376. I've added an FBA, shortened the body and scooped the front neck slightly. I also slightly lengthened the sleeves and then added a hem band, so the sleeves are now nearer to elbow length.

This blue jacket is based on the jacket in Simplicity 9473 with an FBA and the hems straightened out.

Then I took the skirt panels from the S9473 dress, added a little at the waist and put on an elasticated waistband.

The three pieces can be worn together as a skirt suit.

When C came to try the clothes on, only the skirt fitted as is. The jacket was made into a V neck style as the upper neckline kept flipping out, larger sleeves added (as the original ones were too tight) and the hem shortened (more at the back than the front).

The tee was too big in the back and the sleeves and was taken in.

I'd also made a dress (not pictured which was OK in the sleeves, too long in the body and too wide in the back.

I am learning what alterations I need to make for things to fit C nicely.

Platinum Jubilee Capsule Wardrobe Plan

I had an idea for a capsule wardrobe for the Platinum Jubilee weekend.

I've not done a capsule wardrobe for ages, so a new one would be fun for me.

Where I can I will reuse or repurpose existing items as this just seems to make sense.

This shirt from February, cotton so could be worn in summer.

Perhaps this dress from January, though ponte may be too warm for June.

This top also from January, this is viscose jersey so fine for summer

worn with the blue jeans from March, not too thick so should be OK.

Blue Cardigan from Oct 2020, over the red dress.

Red cardigan from April 2020, over anything blue

T shirt from Jan 2020, has brushed poly sleeves so can feel quite warm.

Hmm that would cover the 4 days without me sewing anything new! 

However if the weather is warm on those days, several of these outfits would just be too hot so perhaps there is some scope for sewing some more summery items.