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Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Test garments - jacket muslin fitted

Yorkshire Lass and I had a very successful sewing weekend, and long overdue as it has been ages!
I wasn't quite sure what to mention first, but I think the muslin of the jacket was pretty good once we added some back darts (not on the pattern), let out all of the seams below the waist and gave me one shoulder pad one side and two the other, since I'm a bit wonky.
This is what it looked like afterwards


Looks pretty good for something quickly run up out of some upholstery fabric remnants doesn't it?
I can definitely go on and make up a jacket with this pattern now.

Below are some of the during fitting shots



I am basically the next size up from the waist down and just need to remember that as we found it was the case on knit tops too.
So this jacket has
- forward head alteration (wedge removed from the front)
- round back alteration (wedge added to the back, and removed from the neckline at centre back)
- sway back alteration (shaping in centre back seam plus two back darts)
- additional ease added for full tummy/bottom
- extra shoulder pad for uneven shoulders.

I have used New Look 6082, which has process seams at the front and a centre back seam.


I am washing bedding and throws etc whilst the weather is warm enough to dry outside, plus painting tatty furniture in the garage so not managed to implement any of this yet, but I was very happy how productive this session was.

Thank you Yorkshire Lass!

10 comments:

RhondaBuss said...

Your jacket looks wonderful Ruthie. I'm so glad that you added the darts. As for the shoulder situation, we're all a bit wonky!!!!!

Linda T said...

I think you got a great fit. Now you can go on a jacket sewing spree!

Sandra said...

Ruthie, I'm so glad that your friend helped you with this. I just love it, especially with the addition of the slender icing back darts. And wonky? Welcome to my world! S after this one, five more? ;)

BetsyV said...

Looks great, Ruthie! This will really help you step up your work wardrobe.

Ann said...

Looks great Ruthie. I think this pattern is going to become a TNT pattern for you.

L said...

I think the back looks too big - especially near the armhole. I recognize this as a problem I have with fitting jackets and found that going down a size in this area and making a small broad back alteration helps. On the front, it looks like the bust curve or bust point is too low as you have the same bunching near the armhole. I can't tell if the jacket has princess seams or not. I think the bust, midsection, and hip area fit well. Keep at it and you'll definitely have a TNT!

SewRuthie said...

Hi L, yes there are princess seams in the front, but only a single centre back seam. Re the excess at the back, yes we saw that, but I need it to reach for things e.g. drive/type so if that gets removed I'm a bit stuck. YL attended a tailoring class and had something similar which she was told to leave as needed for reaching. It may look worse in the photos as I used upholstery fabric which was quite thick.
Unfortunately I am home now with no fitting buddy anymore so may not be able to make further changes on my own.

Sharon said...

Your jacket is looking fantastic and isn't it so good to have a sewing buddy to help you.

Sandra said...

Just stopping in to see further comments. In mine, slender icing = slenderizing (thanksalot, iPad). And S = So . I'm looking forward to your progress on this jacket. I understand about sometimes it looks a little wide in the back, in still photos, but we do need to be able to move!

Audrey said...

Isn't it great to have a sewing/fitting buddy. I have to make many of the same alterations that you do. Your muslin looks good. It will be exciting to see the jacket made up in a garment fabric, though I love the color of the upholstery fabric. I noticed you pinned the center front bands over each other. I actually like that look better than the pattern, which I believe does not overlap of bands in the front.