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Friday, 20 November 2015

Trouser curve for pattern fitting

I am in an information gathering phase I think and it might be a little while until I actually get to do anything with tissue or fabric.
I have been using my bendy ruler to see what sort of crotch curve I have - its sort of like measuring an armhole to see what a sleeve cap should look like though so definitely interesting. I don't do too badly imaging things in 3D so I'm hoping all this thinking will make progress simpler later.

My crotch curve is longer than the ruler. 27" front to back of which 16" is at the back and 11 at the front.
The back is shaped like 2/3rds of a U, very rounded but the front is a smooth shallow curve. It a very strange looking thing with the two together. I think it is worth tackling this part first and then looking at the legs after that.
Comparing it to a Burda draft, the back is sort of in the right shape but the crotch needs to be another 2" deeper!
The front crotch curve needs to be shorter in the rise and deeper by an inch and a quarter, that's another 3.5" I need in depth - wow. Mind who cares what the pattern pieces look like if it fits.

I shall have to process that a bit as I am stunned. May add pictures tomorrow.

4 comments:

Julie Culshaw said...

Some years ago, I decided to make my teen daughter a pair of jeans, and measured her favourite pair of RTW ones. I was surprised to find the front crotch on the RTW pair was very short, 11" if I recall correctly. The back crotch was much longer, not the usual 1 or 2" difference we see in many sewing patterns. It seemed strange to me but it certainly worked. She much preferred how they fit with the crotch point sitting forward on her body. I will be interested to see this works out for you.

mrsmole said...

I have clients that measure 13 in front and 18 in the back so it is no wonder why they cannot find pants that fit in RTW. Once you have your own numbers and the right curve, you are ahead of the game. Good Luck!

JuliaRu said...

Ruthie, good luck with this. I took the pants fitting class offered through patternreview.com recently, and the lady who teaches the class also developed the Eureka pants pattern which has 3 different back patterns depending on your shape. I first tried to alter a basic pant pattern according to her class directions, but didn't really get a great fit. so I spent the money and bought her Eureka pattern and it seems to fit with very little alterations on me (lucky, I know). if you run into too many roadblocks with your method, consider that pattern (NAYY). I was surprised, like you, that I needed to use the back pattern for the 'fuller' butt curve (who, me?). the difference in length between my front and back crotch curves was pretty different too (I think 11 and 17).
Julia

JuliaRu said...

Hi again Ruthie. Well, I must correct myself. I did NOT use the Eureka pants pattern...I had planned to, but forgot I ended up using one of the Simplicity pants patterns that has 3 different back pattern pieces...funny. I do not own the Eureka pattern... : )