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Tuesday, 11 March 2014

Ivory Top Prep cont

feel free to skip over this if you only like to see finished garments!
these are my musings when tackling a new pattern, and some people might find that helpful.
I will also show the alterations I make as I go along as I this might be useful.
Yesterday evening I rough cut the Vogue pattern, and studied the shapes of the pieces as I did so, plus read through the instructions again.
The next step will be to compare to a TNT and think about what alterations I need to make, and how those might affect other pattern pieces (e.g. facing).

If I want to lengthen the dress it is from the hem.
The front of the dress/top is a really wierd angle so will have to be careful handling, stitching and hemming it. There is already a centre back seam which should make round back alteration easier to do.
I plan on omitting the back zip.
The fabric I want to use is not hugely stretchy but it does meet the stretch guide on the envelope and does return back to shape afterwards. This is a good indicator that it will be OK.
Since there are two pieces for the front, I need to make sure the forward head alteration is done in the same place and for the same amount on both, and that these two alterations will affect the size/shape of the facing pieces which will also need altering.
Note: these are wedge shaped alterations.
The extensions which make the top into the dress will probably need to be cut off for making the top, so I will need to write on them the pattern number, pattern piece etc so they can be reused in future when I make the dress.
I need to check the sleeve width across the bicep area, as my arms are full here. I may need to do a full bicep alteration (not always needed in a knit). I can either measure or compare to a TNT (treied n true pattern).

The little skirt looks really easy, but really short. They provide lengthening lines though, so before I cut the skirt out (a future project) I will measure a previously made skirt which I hemmed to a flattering length, allow for the hem and the elastic waist and lengthen appropriately by adding tissue into the section.
Note: this will just be a simple lengthening, but from above the pleat detail.

The trousers (pants) have a really shallow crotch both front and back. I will compare to my burda TNT and alter accordingly. This is likely to include more wedge alterations. As with the upper body, I add extra at the back, but sometimes need to remove from the front. I am fairly average height so lengths on trousers are normally OK.

The jacket has a peplum, raglan sleeves and a shaped shawl collar. I am limited on fabric yardage (its an Ikea throw) so may cut single collars using the finished edge of the throw, this may change construction around the collar and the shape of the lower part of the collar.
The waist seam needs to sit on the waist, so I need to check the front and back length after I have done the usual round back/forward head alterations. I have a level waist, but sometimes extra length is needed (not often).
Since this has raglan sleeves I may need to adapt the usual round back/forward head alterations for a raglan pattern. Any changes to the bodice pieces affecting the neckline will also impact the collar pieces which will need altering also.
The throw is a loosely woven fabric not a knit, and frays very badly once cut and handled. So I need to cut this one out immediately prior to sewing it up, so best done when I have a chunk of sewing time available.

1 comment:

Simran Shah said...

very nice design and collection