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Wednesday 16 March 2022

Itch to Stitch Mountain View Jeans

After much debate I bought the pdf pattern for the Itch to Stitch Mountain View Jeans, printed them out from Adobe Acrobat using the layers option and stuck them together.

I made a test pair which worked out quite well (charcoal grey), so with a few tweaks I then made another pair (dark brown) including contrast topstitching (tan) and the rear pockets. These were slightly tight as I'd used a fabric with only 15 percent stretch (the pattern needs 20-30%).  I then went on to make the denim ones, allowing a little more room and the most beautiful Celtic Illumination fat quarter for the pocket linings. These were a little loose on the back waistband, so I unpicked and took the elastic in by 2 inches, and they are now really great. 

I have now donated all my old RTW jeans as they were uncomfortable.

Blue jeans

Blue jeans pockets (gold Celtic Illumination fat quarter)
fabric closeup

Charcoal trousers

Dark brown trousers

My notes of tweaks between pair one and two

Now wearing my test Itch to Stitch Mountain view jeanstrousers. They are not bad, but could be even better.

Alterations made to original pattern
- extra length added to back crotch in 3 places
- stuck the two back leg pieces together and cut as one
- left off a lot of the topstitching
- although I cut out the back pockets I've not put them on (yet)
otherwise sewn as per pattern

Suggested tweaks for next pair
- take in at upper back crotch and back yoke
- make back waistband smaller and much more curved
- have shorter length of elastic for back waist.
- shorten leg length by 1/2” (or take a slightly larger hem!)
- take a narrow seam on inside leg to allow a little more room on thigh
- scoop the back crotch curve to allow for low derriere

My notes after pair two

I put the back pockets on the brown pair and they do look quite jeansy, but are snug - fine for standing up in but a bit tight when I sit.
I've just checked and they only have about 15% stretch in the fabric (I thought it was more than that) which must be why.

The whole area of stretch wovens is a bit of a minefield so I think basting the main side seams before finalising is probably a good idea on this pattern. Once its overlocked and topstitched its a bit late :-)

Anyway I was happy enough with them to cut out the ones in the classic dark blue stretch denim, which I plan to topstitch in gold to look as much like jeans as possible.

My notes after pair three

I finished the dark blue denim jeans last night and am wearing them today.

Generally they are great, a good length, plenty of back rise, soft round the tummy.
They are slightly loose on the waist, specifically the back waist (I need the front) and it would be interesting to alter that as the elastic is sewn in and the waist seam is serged - maybe I should change the construction slightly on the next pair to make access to the waist easier.

Took the last 45 mins to unpick enough of the overlocking, 2 lots of straight stitching and a load of zig zagging to be able to shorten the elastic by 2 inches and resew it all back together. That has now eliminated that little back gap I had and the jeans are staying up better.

Other notes
I cut a size 16 based on my measurements. I did not use rivets.