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Saturday 25 April 2020

Red cardigan with pockets

After all that black I wanted a change to something a bit more colourful so I have switched over to red.
This cardigan is made from another double layer knit, but a much drapier one. The right side has a textured effect and the back is smooth.
I used the cardigan pattern from Wendy Ward's sewing with knits book again. As with the black cardigan its a little longer than the mid length version in the book, and the pockets ae partially stitched at the top leaving a 6" opening.

This replaces a RTW red cardigan of a similar style but lacking pockets and now a bit worn so I know there is a space in my wardrobe for a red cardigan.

Frankly red is a bit bright for me though it is in my Sophisticated palette from Imogen Lamport. I've found I can wear it but it needs a red lipstick for best effect.

Sunday 19 April 2020

Black 6 piece collection

Here's my latest collection in slightly uncharacteristic black.

It all started off with the musical notes shirt. I'm in a choir and we had a social event, so I thought a musical notes shirt would be ideal. Its not particularly good quality cotton fabric, and I'd originally bought it to make a bag for my choir music, but it was a bit lightweight.

I then made some black bengaline trousers which I finished and immediately took away on holiday to Madeira (more about that in another post). They were great for the flights but a bit too heavy to wear whilst we were there. However I've worn them a lot since we came back as they are just so practical.
They had just come through the laundry in this photo -  always a good sign!

Next I went back to the shirt pattern again and did another version in a proper shirting. I even found some lovely black backed pearl shank buttons in the button box which worked perfectly (when does that happen?).

After that I thought I'd try a new trouser pattern, so worked with Butterick 6947. They needed quite a few alterations to work but I'm pleased with the final outcome. The pinstripe has no stretch but works well after the alterations.

Next I decided to use the leftovers from the black quilted coat I made in January and found a suitable pattern in my stash of Prima patterns. The inseam pockets are made from the black bengaline, and the fronts and collar are cut in a single piece to reduce seaming.

And then I went back to an old favourite and made an open fronted cardigan from Wendy Ward's book. (I have worn out several cardigans made from this pattern).

Although the pieces can all be worn together I will probably wear with colour as all black and white is not my best look.

Saturday 18 April 2020

Black Jaquard cardigan

I think this is going to be the last black piece, as I've done a full 6 PAC now and I think sewing colours would feel more cheery.

The fabric is a double layer Jacquard knit. I cut with nap so the knitted pattern goes the same direction on all the pieces. 
I like to have some texture in my fabrics so this is great because its a plain colour but has the texture I like.
This is the front and back together, you can see the pattern better on the back.

I used the cardigan from Wendy Ward's book 'Sewing with Knits'. I made the middle length, lengthened slightly.
I find the giant pockets bag out a bit, so I stitch the edges of the top closed, leaving a 6" gap in the middle to get your hand in.

Tuesday 14 April 2020

Zip front jacket

Here's my latest project a zip front jacket, using Prima Feb 2010 and the leftover quilted fabric from the coat I made right at the start of the year.
 Here it is worn open over the floral shirt.
 The back showing the panel seams
 And the front zipped up. I really liked the way this looks.

I used this Pattern from Prima magazine Feb 2010. To avoid to much seaming in this bulky fabric I converted the collar in an attached collar and cut the two fronts and the collar as a single piece without a seam. It gives a lovely clean finish which I really like.
It has inseam pockets in the front panel seams. I made them larger and more rectangular (copying a favourite RTW jacket) and they have been hand stitched to the zipper tape for security. The pockets are made from black bengaline left from the black trousers as I thought quilted pockets would be too thick.

My version is also a couple of inches longer and has a front zipper instead of hooks (the original design was made in faux fur).
Here are the last 5 pieces together. I have a jacquard knit black cardigan cut out as the next piece.

Monday 13 April 2020

Black striped trousers finished

I've reworked and finished the trousers from Butterick 3947.
I added a separate casing for the back, 5 belt loops. The front has been shortened by 5cm (2 inches) and the band reattached. The back was shortened to match the chalk markings and the new casing attached.
Front with flat waistband

Back with elastic casing and alteration for large and low derriere (look odd on hanger but good on person).
Here's a close up of the fabric, the pinstripes are made of double stripes alternately in white and pale grey, with the pale grey also having an outer stripe of an invisible thread which sometimes catches the light.
The fabrics was from deep stash, a 2m cut which seems to be a nice quality wool mix suiting. I have no recall whatsoever where I bought it. 

Saturday 11 April 2020

Trying Butterick 6947 Trousers

I pulled out this OOP Butterick pattern from 2000 (mine is size 14-16-18) from the pattern collection, when I was thinking about making culottes, instead I decided to make the trousers (far right).

I thought I'd help myself with the crotch curves by copying them off the black bengaline trousers and transferring onto this pattern. This involved altering the back pattern piece quite a bit but just changing the curve slightly on the front.

I made the front waistband longer as I am flatter at the front but swaybacked.

I then partly constructed the trousers and tried them on to see if I could manage without the back zip. They have a fixed front waistband, a centre back zip and a back elastic casing to two parts either side of the zip. This seemed overkill and I wanted to avoid the zip if possible.

Overall they were too long in the waist and I didn't like the way the back casing would have an angle in it (from my alteration). I marked either side of 1 inch elastic with a sliver of soap (I prefer soap to chalk on dark fabrics).

Here's what that looks like.
The white lines are drawn above and below the elastic belt and are broadly where I want the waistband to be. The front has the waistband attached but flipped up.
The back includes the casing but flipped up.
The lines are a bit wonky as I'm doing this for myself whilst wearing them, so I will smooth them out to something sensible.

So this time I will trim off from the top of the waist, but that will affect the pockets. They are large with a big opening so they will still be usable once shortened, but it may be best to shorten the tissue in a different place for next time.

I'll show you what they look like once I have done that and finished them properly.

Tuesday 7 April 2020

Black floral shirt

 This is my next piece for SWAP 2020, a woven shirt using the same pattern I used for the musical shirt. I made it the same way except with different cuffs (wider than the pattern but narrower than the folded over cuffs of the musical shirt).
I even had the perfect buttons deep in stash, white pearl with a black back and shank, which sit beautifully.
I love how this came out.
The pattern I used is from March 2020 Prima Magazine (a UK women's magazine).
I shortened the shirt dress pattern to be a shirt.

Monday 6 April 2020

Black bengaline trousers

These black trousers are made from bengaline (a stretch woven).
I used New Look 6216 again. 
For this version I left off the front tie, but added 5 large belt loops. I also made the pockets, longer and wider and changed the opening to be more jeans style (top entry) which keeps the contents more secure. I also scooped the back crotch for my low derriere.
Whilst they are not much to look at they are super comfortable and have already been worn a lot.
These will be part of my SWAP 2020 (which now has an extended timeline to 30th June 2020).