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Thursday 29 June 2023

Oldest UFO finished - Sophisticated Safari Jacket

That's UFO as in Un Finished Object.



So the story goes something like this. 

Back in 2008 (that's 15 years ago!) I had the idea for a 'Sophisticated Safari' type collection and cut out a jacket from OOP Simplicity 4231.

Here's my May 2008 blog post about my ideas

Sew Ruthie Style: Sophisticated Safari (ruthieksews1.blogspot.com)

By June 2008 I had sewed up the other pieces in the collection and posted about those, but the jacket was too hard and was packed away in a clear zip lock bag.

Sew Ruthie Style: Sophisticated Safari so far (ruthieksews1.blogspot.com)

I then went through a lot of change in my life (moving 3 times in 2 years and getting divorced. 

The next time I dug out the jacket was in October 2016

Sew Ruthie Style: Simplicity 4231 Green Tropical Wool Safari Jacket (ruthieksews1.blogspot.com)

I worked on it a bit and posted about it again in November 2016

Sew Ruthie Style: Simplicity 4231 Green Tropical Wool Safari Jacket (ruthieksews1.blogspot.com)

I next came back to the project in Jan 2021 as part of the UFO sew along on TSP

"I have a UFO started quite a few years ago now. It is an olive green wool jacket in a sort of Safari style, with lots of pockets and a belt. I decided I needed to line it, which meant working out what to do to draft the lining which at the time seemed too hard. I could probably manage to do it now. However its a size too small so not entirely sure what I'd do with it once finished. Hmm maybe a bit of try on would be a good idea, I have got some scraps left so could add panels....."

Then in August 2022 I wrote on my TSP diary thread

"I've fished Doris (the Dressmakers Dummy) out of the corner, and found she's still wearing the half made jacket which is my oldest UFO.So I think I might sew a few seams on the UFO jacket (it uses the same thread colour as the trenchcoat) to get it to a point where it could sit on a jacket hanger and free Doris up for the trenchcoat as I assemble that. I am seriously out of love with the jacket but hey ho."

Yesterday I put the sleeves in the jacket and tried to attach the facing bits that were not yet sewn. Something isn't quite right as I have a tiny gap where the collar and revere come together. This is the problem with taking many years to work on a garment in bits, you've forgotten what you did last time. Anyway it was enough together that I could pop it on a hanger and free up Doris for the trenchcoat.

And on another thread at the end of August

I should finish the pesky UFO jacket of doom as the thread from my last project matches it (I am wondering about undoing parts of it and using a slightly different construction method, even though I hate unpicking).

And then it'd make sense to sew something which co-ordinates with it, like some trousers. I have some striped stretch woven fabric in darkish hues.

Then maybe a soft jersey poloneck (turtleneck) to go under the jacket, something in a cheerful colour to cheer up all that darkness.

After all this the jacket went away again still unfinished. In all those attempts though I had drafted a lining, sewn and then unpicked the collar, added a panel to make the sleeve wider and inserted the sleeves.

Finally a few days ago I pulled the pieces out of the bag, popped them on the dummy and had a think about finishing the jacket.
Having recently finished C's jacket, I was in a fairly jacket like mode, so decided to use my common sense (and acquired knowledge on jackets) to sew the bits up the best I could without looking at the instructions which had caused me problems with the collar.

I gave things a press, assembled the lining and set the lining sleeves in. Then put the collar on, and added the lining. Bagged the lining. Front buttonhole and sewed the buttons on.

This I did over multiple sessions over several days and its finally finished!

Its only taken 15 years!

Monday 26 June 2023

Skirt Suit for a Friend

 I've done some more sewing for my friend C. She really likes blue.

This blue tee is based on Simplicity 8376. I've added an FBA, shortened the body and scooped the front neck slightly. I also slightly lengthened the sleeves and then added a hem band, so the sleeves are now nearer to elbow length.



This blue jacket is based on the jacket in Simplicity 9473 with an FBA and the hems straightened out.


Then I took the skirt panels from the S9473 dress, added a little at the waist and put on an elasticated waistband.
The three pieces can be worn together as a skirt suit.

When C came to try the clothes on, only the skirt fitted as is. The jacket was made into a V neck style as the upper neckline kept flipping out, larger sleeves added (as the original ones were too tight) and the hem shortened (more at the back than the front).
The tee was too big in the back and the sleeves and was taken in.

I'd also made a dress (not pictured which was OK in the sleeves, too long in the body and too wide in the back.

I am learning what alterations I need to make for things to fit C nicely.

Friday 16 June 2023

Sundress for a friend

My friend C had a favourite sundress that she'd worn until it was falling apart. I was able to copy it and make her a new one with some fabric she provided. I think its a great choice.

The fabric is a tropical leaf print in 100% cotton. I think it'll be cool to wear and wash well.


Here it is spread out flat


And turned inside out so you can see the seaming.


A few notes on the copying process.

I laid the dress out so that I could copy half of the back, half of the front, the front side panel and the back side panel. I laid tissue paper over the top and traced round with a pencil. I then added seam allowances and cut out the tissue pattern pieces.

Next I took and old striped duvet cover and cut the dress out and sewed it up. This highlighted a couple of minor issues with my pattern which I corrected. 


I then got C to try the duvet cover dress on. From the try on she decided she wanted to lengthen it at the front for the final version. I made the alterations to the front pattern pieces. 

The fabric layout was quite a tight squeeze as the fabric was only 45" wide. I folded the fabric so it was just wide enough for the front and back pieces and cut those out on the fold first. Next I cut out the side extensions (single layer) and finally cut 2" wide bias strips to finish the neckline and armholes.

First I sewed the front side panels to the front piece, then the back side panels to the back piece. Then the front to the back at the shoulders and sides. I overlocked the seams together.

I then did a bias bound finish on the neckline and armholes, stitching a folded bias strip to the wrong side, then flipping it to the right side and stitching down.

The hems were double turned and hemmed with a straight stitch. It was bulky on the corners.


The second dress made from this pattern.

Friday 9 June 2023

Fabric Purchases June 2023


 Fabric purchases June 2023

I went shopping yesterday and picked up a few new fabrics. There were others I considered and left behind, but I'm pleased with what I have.

far left - 2m of 100% cotton floral, likely to be a shirt

2nd from left - 2m of 100% viscose floral, likely to be a blouse

3rd from left - 2m of red and white seersucker, shirt or maybe a shirt dress

3rd from right - 2m of red and white polka dot fabric (for the polka dot challenge!)

2nd from right - 4 metres of stretch denim to keep me in jeans

far right - a remnant of very stretchy black knit, probably used in the place of ribbing for cuffs etc


Wednesday 7 June 2023

Soft teal baby cord shirt

 Many years ago I bought a length of soft blue/grey/teal babycord with a section of beading and embroidery across it.

I think I'd intended to make a gathered skirt, but as I don't really wear them it stayed uncut in my stash.

It has now been turned into a shirt. To maximise the embroidered section I cut the front and back with the detail running near the hem, the sleeves, collar and cuffs are plain, though I did need to line the cuffs with a contrast scrap of paisley cotton from Auntie Joy's stash.

front

side

fabric details

cuff detail

back

For the pattern I used the Prima March 2020 shirtdress cut down to a shirt. It is a very economical pattern for short yardages.