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Friday, 26 May 2017

Summer Sea: reworked blue top

So I cut all the serging off, unpicked any extra seaming, cut the hems off, cut the shoulder seams off, recut the back, and resewed and rehemmed the whole thing inside out. I left the panel seams as they were and just topstitched them to keep them in place.

I am pleased with the result. The fit is much better and the contrast level in the garment is also much better. I can imagine wearing this one. The inside is still VERY striped!

As an aside I thought ages ago about making this up with the darker softer side as the outside, but somehow allowed that gut feeling to be overcome by doing it the 'proper way'. Maybe I should've listened!

(Also wondering if I need to add a little something, button or tab or flower or .... at that point on the neckline where its pulled slightly by the panels meeting. Thoughts?)

Monday, 22 May 2017

Summer Sea - Alterations proceeding well

No photos at the moment however the alterations are proceding well.

Dress fix - cut the bodice off just above the section where it was too tight, added the skirt section from the too large skirt (having removed the elastic). Topstitched the seam open for a nice detail.
Looser fit works well on, may wish to take in centre back seam for sway back, however nice with jacket over or partially elastic belt.

Skirt fix - repurposed the skirt from the dress as a skirt, reusing the elastic from the original skirt. Nice almost maxi skirt with slimming fit over the hips. (Excuse bad picture)

Trousers fix - scooped the crotch. Seems better at the back though almost want to scoop even more.

RTW navy trousers fix - also scooped the crotch. Improved the fit of these as well. Scooping the crotch is going to be my alteration of choice for RTW and self sewn trousers.

Barcode striped tee, cut apart and started reassembling inside out - this one will take a while! So far I have cut all the seams and hems off, pressed everything, topstitched down the panel seams on the front (which I'm keeping inside out as a feature) and pressed the neckband back flat and resewed the neckband seam. So still have the assembly of a whole garment left to do!

Friday, 19 May 2017

Plans but no progress

Work has been busy this week and I've been watching TV in the evenings after getting home late most nights.
To make the cadigan jacket from a throw I switched the thread on the overlocker and sewing machine over to cadet blue and then found, overlocked raw edges and washed some remnants of cadet blue fabric (a non stretch twill mystery mix of some sort). It washed up beautifully so I measured the odd shaped pieces and hatched a plan.

There are 4 pieces of fabric,
90cm + 60cm - jacket, I thought New Look 6481

1.6m - trousers, I thought Burda 05/2017 #103

1m - skirt, I thought my old favourite Butterick 3972. I would cut this at the end as it has smallish odd shaped pieces which can fit round other things.
I'd need to do some alterations to the jacket, I'd need to trace and slightly alter the trousers, I could just cut and sew the skirt.

However I have not yet done the planned alterations to the navy pieces which I already sewed. So I think I will be disciplined and switch the thread back to navy and get those done.

Summer Sea
Cardigan jacket - Doesn't need any alterations.
Skirt - is a bit too large
Dress - is a bit tight around the tummy.

Top - Needs remaking inside out for a softer stripe
Trousers - need the crotch scooping for a better rear fit.

I shall go and change the thread back to navy now!

PS something seems to be wrong with Stitchers Guild, though I'm not sure what. I know they were adding a gallery for the SWAP photos, so maybe that has caused an issue.

Tuesday, 16 May 2017

Leaf Print Jersey

I bought this 180cm wide leaf print jersey from Tony the Monday Market Man.
Leaves are my absolutely favourite motif.
So although I have quite a lot of fabric already I did buy both colourways of this, 2 metres of each as I think the scraps could be mixed together with each other or with plains in the various colours. All wonderfully in my colour palette.
This one has a taupe background (rather washed out in the centre by the flash, the real colour is on the right hand edge). The other colours are turquoise, cadet blue, dark brown and flashes of yellow.
The other version has a dark green background with leaves in white, turquoise, cadet blue and teal.

They are both good on me but the dark green background is partiularly nice and works well with the unfinished olive green jacket.

Sunday, 14 May 2017

May Fabric Purchases

I went along to Economy Fabrics recently and bought some 2 inch elastic plus some fabrics, which I'll share here.

Here we have some marine navy man-made blue knit, which is strangely narrow (but not in a tube)
also some turquoise cotton knit (which is greener than the Summer Sea blue despite the photo)
and a lovely viscose knit with brown, olive and lime green on a white background. Hopefully this will co-ordinate with the olive green safari jacket should I ever finish it!

This picture includes a rather wrinkled and very bright coral pink jersey knit, a white and soft pink marled knit (quite sheer) and a remnant of the most gorgeous georgette, which will probably be a scarf.

And finally two 1m pieces of cotton stamps print fabric for non clothing sewing, though an earlier customer apparently used the second one for a blouse with a red collar! I plan to use the Christmas one to trim Christmas stockings and the other also as trim maybe on shopping bags.

I might decide to enliven the summer sea with some nice coral.

Thursday, 11 May 2017

Summer Sea (navy and cadet blue): Blue cardigan

Here's the last item in the Summer Sea collection (I'm also including the RTW top with long sleeves shown under the cardigan here) which is a cardigan jacket made from an ikea throw.

Using my old favoutire Prima jacket adapated a bit.

A similar pattern to this which is more easily available would be McCall's 6084

Because of the marl in the cardigan it would go with black or navy, white and various shades of blue and turquoise quite easily. I found 5 necklaces from the necklace wall which would work with it and different tops.
Thankfully the fit on this is fine. The acrylic does have a tendency to stretch out on the shoulders and neckline so I stabilised this version with some blue decorative briad across the shoulders and back neck.

Here's me assembling the collection all together, it'll be great once I've tweaked the fit of the other pieces.
I've put the stripe top in both sides out, but I'm pretty sure its going to get remade inside out. Plus I'm not buying those shoes.

Wednesday, 10 May 2017

Summer Sea (navy and cadet blue): Navy skirt

This is the most boring item in the collection, and like all the others needs some alterations (sigh).
Ages ago I had a RTW knit dress. It had a waist seam and a lovely skirt which flared slightly and draped beautifully. I traced the skirt off at the time so I could add it to my favourite tops to make a dress.The dress has long gone but I kept the tracing.
I've not used the skirt panel for a while so when I came to this ponte skirt I added a bit to the sides and the hem and then added a hidden elastic waist.
The end result is too big. Obviously I made the elastic the right length so it stays up but it is just too big so will need some sort of alteration. It may get morphed onto the dress where the waist is a bit tight (sigh) and a new waistband cut for the skirt off the dress and made into a skirt?
Anyway we'll see how that works out next week sometime. Other wise I can just unpick the elastic and take the skirt in a bit, no biggie.
Once that's done it should be handy for the two navy wardrobe orphan jackets and a colourful blouse to make a nice outfit.
I've been looking at navy sandals, wedges and nude wedges as good shoes really help the outfit. Problem is can I walk in them?

I'll keep you posted
I went to George at Asda living after work and tried the shoes on. They were not suitable so I won't be buying them. The size 6 (euro 39) were too large and the size 5 (euro 38) were too small. The section across the toes seemed very low cut also.
I tried a lot of other shoes on also and then I bought these.
Off to see what else I have in Leopard darlings!

Tuesday, 9 May 2017

Summer Sea (navy and cadet blue): Navy dress (wardrobe orphan solution)

The third item in the Summer Sea collection is a navy dress from the same ponte as the trousers.
This looks great on Doris Dressform, but not quite so good on me as the waistline doesn't flare out quite quickly enough and is therefore a bit tight over the stomach area which isn't hugely flattering. I could add a waist seam and bring the skirt up a little as it is plenty long.
I used the dress view C from Vogue 8679 as a starting point, but made some changes.
  1. lengthened and flared the skirt
  2. added a central back seam
  3. lengthened the sleeves
  4. changed the neck gathers to pleats

I planned this to help be with a problem I had with a wardrobe orphan, a lovely office jacket bought on sale, navy with pink pinstripes.
It looks very smart with navy shoes and a lovely warm pink and greyed blue silk scarf I have had for about 20 years.

Monday, 8 May 2017

Summer Sea (navy and cadet blue): Barcode Striped Tee

Here's the second item in the Summer Sea collection
When cutting out I was concerned about how striped it was and wanted to break the stripes up a bit so I did a cutabout arrangement for the front. I cut the back on the fold and then gathered the back neckline onto the neckband.
The top overall is too big, and the lack of a centre back seam means terrible pooling at the back waist as I've not accommodated my sway back.
This fabric has a navy back ground which is then printed in white, sky blue and the turquoisey cadet blue. The cadet blue/turquoise is not very evident so it reads as too cool in colouration and too high contrast for me.

And I've also realised that the print reminds me of traditional blue striped pyjamas, which isn't good for a daytime top.
Here's a shot of the inside showing the dark navy base fabric with a little of the lighter colours bleeding through from the print the other side. Its much nicer, I think, than the right side.

This gives me an idea, to cut the top apart at the seams and remake it inside out. I could add a centre back seam to fix the sway back and foreward head issues. I could topstitch down the feature stitching on the cutabout front and rehem it all.
It would need a new neckband though, either super skinny from the old band, or plain navy from another fabric.

Sadly the whole collection continues in this same sort of theme, so brace yourselves for a surprisingly choppy passage on the Summer Sea!

Thoughts on scrap tees here


Sunday, 7 May 2017

Summer Sea (navy and cadet blue): Style Arc Barb trousers in navy ponte

So the first item to share is the Style Arc Barb trouser in navy ponte.
Mostly for my own reference, for next time, here is what I did.

I had the size 16 pattern, I measured between the 16 and 18 on my measurements. I have chunky legs for which they don't include a measurement, so I decided to add 1/2" all the way down both sides and at the top, but not at the hem. This makes the crotch longer as well as the legs and body wider.
When I sewed these up I waited until I could get some 2" elastic and worked on other pieces in the collection.
I used the measurement length for the size 16 elastic (37" but 3/4" for the seam), but in wear this is slightly too loose.
The pants are comfortable but fall down a bit at the waist, tightening the elastic would probably resolve that.
They also feel too short at the back waist, and pull down at the back waist elastic when sitting. It feels like I need an additional yoke of fabric at the back waist. (This has been a issue for me in RTW for my entire life so I don't hold it against StyleArc). Its not so much an issue when standing. The front crotch feels too long when sitting but seems OK when standing.
They were too long. I cut off 3" and did a 1" hem. This seems about right, though might be slightly too short if the waist sat higher up. For reference I am 5' 5.5" and normally shorten Burda by 1/2". I buy standard length trousers in RTW.
The front seems to hang OK. I have drag lines all over the back of the trousers though.
I have added some photos and will try to diagnose them from fitting pictures.
Sadly these look worse at the back than my track suit trousers I wear when I am being comfortable around the house. However that might be due to fabric rather than cut.

I suspect full seat, low butt and full calf all need to be accommodated.  Sway back and full thigh seem to be catered for in the width and elastic back.

Note to myself, favourite RTW jeans have 11" front and 17" back crotch measurement.
Note to self for next time. I tightened the waist elastic slightly and scooped the back crotch. They do fit better than the photos above after that and have been worn a lot, but sadly the fabric is pilling. However they are very comfortable and have been worn a lot. I suspect even more improvements would be seen from a full front thigh and full back calf alteration as they do pull slightly in these places.