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Sunday, 7 May 2017

Summer Sea (navy and cadet blue): Style Arc Barb trousers in navy ponte

So the first item to share is the Style Arc Barb trouser in navy ponte.
Mostly for my own reference, for next time, here is what I did.

I had the size 16 pattern, I measured between the 16 and 18 on my measurements. I have chunky legs for which they don't include a measurement, so I decided to add 1/2" all the way down both sides and at the top, but not at the hem. This makes the crotch longer as well as the legs and body wider.
When I sewed these up I waited until I could get some 2" elastic and worked on other pieces in the collection.
I used the measurement length for the size 16 elastic (37" but 3/4" for the seam), but in wear this is slightly too loose.
The pants are comfortable but fall down a bit at the waist, tightening the elastic would probably resolve that.
They also feel too short at the back waist, and pull down at the back waist elastic when sitting. It feels like I need an additional yoke of fabric at the back waist. (This has been a issue for me in RTW for my entire life so I don't hold it against StyleArc). Its not so much an issue when standing. The front crotch feels too long when sitting but seems OK when standing.
They were too long. I cut off 3" and did a 1" hem. This seems about right, though might be slightly too short if the waist sat higher up. For reference I am 5' 5.5" and normally shorten Burda by 1/2". I buy standard length trousers in RTW.
The front seems to hang OK. I have drag lines all over the back of the trousers though.
I have added some photos and will try to diagnose them from fitting pictures.
Sadly these look worse at the back than my track suit trousers I wear when I am being comfortable around the house. However that might be due to fabric rather than cut.

I suspect full seat, low butt and full calf all need to be accommodated.  Sway back and full thigh seem to be catered for in the width and elastic back.

Note to myself, favourite RTW jeans have 11" front and 17" back crotch measurement.
Note to self for next time. I tightened the waist elastic slightly and scooped the back crotch. They do fit better than the photos above after that and have been worn a lot, but sadly the fabric is pilling. However they are very comfortable and have been worn a lot. I suspect even more improvements would be seen from a full front thigh and full back calf alteration as they do pull slightly in these places.


CAN I said...

I have learned a lot from watching Peggy Sagers poster web casts, she has been posting for years so there are lots to choose from. http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_04_29_2013.htm Is one example. If you search on Silhouette Patterns media center you should find links to all of them. Most are about an hour-she starts each one with about fifteen minutes of Q&A then presents info- sometimes on pattern hacks to her line, sometimes general sewing or design tasks. I learned I need to slash and spread about two inches to raise the back waiste, but then I also needed to take out just a pinch across the full bum to remove the wrinkles across the back of my thighs..I hunk it is the video above where she shows the process designers use to draft from a skirt into pants to show WHY so many of us get excess fabric below the bum. Hope you find some info that helps you...best is luck!

sdBev said...

Good luck Ruthie. Pants are hard to fit, but it seems to me that you've done this successfully several times. Pretty sure you will make these fit too..

Jane M said...

Thanks for that full calf adjustment picture, Ruthie. I have to do that to tweak my Elenore Jalie pants pattern a little more. It does take time and effort to fit pants and then the fabric makes a difference too. I have some ponte pants from RTW that I think I might trace off and see if that pattern would work for me.