Silk Blouse

 

I used a silk satin with a bold print, I bought in 2010 and Simplicity 9200 Misses Shirts. I was hoping by using a TNT pattern and a little more knowledge I could manage silk! I spray starched the fabric before cutting out. Allowed it to dry and then ironed it. I sewed slowly with a Microtex needle and used a lot of pins!

On this version I sewed the centre fronts together to make a pull on blouse (I checked on an earlier version that this would work!) and changed the sleeves to be wider at the hem and go into a narrow cuff. I debated adding front pockets to break up the print a bit but haven't done so at this point. (I've saved the scraps in case I change my mind).

I thought after lots of working with viscose (rayon) that I was ready for silk abut I still found it really tricky. The spray starch reduced the fluidity but didn't address the slipperiness of the satin. I think I'll allow a bit of time to pass before I tackle the next silk in my stash, but I'm so glad I'm no longer avoiding the silk.

Black lined coat with faux leather accents

 Wool mix black coat with satin lining and upper collar and patch pockets in faux leather

I also made a large co-ordinating scarf, thinking to have a scarf coat, but have kept it separate for now.

Sashay Culottes from My Handmade Wardrobe

These are my Sashay Culottes from My Handmade wardrobe. It is the monthly pattern for October for the Weekend Sewing Club.

It has a faced waist, patch pockets and a side zip

Having patch pockets on both the front and back confused me a bit, so I've added a label inside to indicate the back.

I've sewn mine from a barely black baby cord from deep stash which I think I've probably had for 20 years

Should be a soft and cosy piece for Autumn Winter.

Red and Black Knit Top - McCall's 7574

I had some scraps of double layer knit left and decided to make a knit top with it.

As my knit scraps are double layer, thick and warm I initially sized up to get an oversized sweater look. I chose the long top with long sleeves. It was a disaster with the saddle sleeves - just looked like a deflated American football player.

I got some advice from sewing buddies and recut the bodice section to better fit my torso and sewed it back together, adding cuff and hem bands to tie the two fabrics in better.

I'm not convinced I'd make this again, but if I did there would need to be some grading between sizes.

Black Vogue Cardigan Jacket

This is the 4th black jacket. I used a floral black sweater knit with horizontal stretch but no vertical stretch to make the jacket from Vogue 2989

Black New Look Jacket

I made another black jacket. This one uses the scraps leftover from making a jacket and skirt for my friend C.

To fit the pattern onto the scraps I played a little with the orientation on the front. I also drafted and added some 5 sided patch pockets, as the pattern doesn't include pockets.

The pattern is New Look 6481

Here's the jacket and skirt I made for C

Black Boucle Clef Coat

This is  the Love Notions Clef Coat (more of a jacket IMHO) in a black wool mix boucle. The fabric was purchased back when I wore suits and separates to the office, but worked quite well in this more casual style.

This has a funnel neck, rather than a fitted collar. I generally prefer it worn open.

It's a fairly simple sew, though I've made a few small changes.

I rotated the pocket piece when I cut it out so that the enclosed area is slightly larger and can hold something like a phone whilst still being OK for putting your hands in.

I positioned the pocket piece slightly higher up to avoid it being too near the hem..

I've drawn the hem onto my pattern pieces as my printout didn't have the hem marked (maybe I turned too many layers off). I've put elastic into the wrists, but not yet into the main hem. I may go back and add this in later.

I couldn't find any indication of where the buttons should go, so made up my own spacing. I interfaced the front bands but nothing else.

Style Arc Rowe's Top/Tunic

Many years ago I bought some Style Arc pdf patterns, printed them off but didn't get round to sewing them all. One of them was the Rowe's Top/Tunic.

I decided to make the top in black black viscose jersey as a bit of a test to see how much I liked the pattern. 

I decided to lengthen the sleeves as much as my fabric remnant allowed and drafted a shaped cuff for the wrist.

It's quite a relaxed fit and the neckline is quite wide and low. They give an option to interface the neckband which I didn't do, so maybe that would control things a bit more. It seems quite stable compared to some viscose jersey but the weight of the body and sleeves has pulled it down.

Maybe another version in a cotton jersey would be quite different.

The neck band is made from 3 shaped pieces which might be a handy thing to remember when using scraps. I don't always have enough width to cut a straight neckband.

At one point I dropped a piece on the floor and was a bit baffled as to where it went back so might do more marking another time!

As this is an older Style Arc patterns there are written instructions and a single diagram. It is not suitable for beginners, but perfectly achievable for a more experienced sewist. 

Newer Style Arc patterns have more detailed instructions and are easier to follow.

This could be a good scrap buster project due to the pieced neckline and back yoke.

Black Ponte Metra Blazer

 

Black is not in my 'Sophisticated' palette but is useful for choir events and traditional funerals, so I dug out some black fabrics from the stash and have started making a few cardigans and jackets for such occasions.

The first one is a Metra blazer from a black ponte remnant.

Sadly I found a fault on the back when I was part way through construction.

So added a stitched down half belt detail to cover that area.

Black Pinstripe trousers

My final piece in this collection are some black pinstripe trousers.

This is my altered New Look 6735 pattern. I also added extra hidden inseam zipped pockets.

 And here are all the pieces together

New Look 6216 trousers

I've slightly tweaked New Look 6216 and made it up in some lovely black suiting from stash. 1.6 metres of 150cm wide was just enough. I can't remember when or where I bought the fabric but it seems to be a viscose, polyester and elastane mix.

For fit I have extended the crotch on both the front and back as I needed the body depth. I've also lowered the front waist and raised the back waist as well as scooping out the back crotch. Much nicer fit!

I finished the hem with the blind hem stitch.

In addition to my fit alterations I also slightly widened the legs and enlarged the pockets

My first Metra Blazer

 

I've been noticing people's versions of the Metra blazer, and when it was the $5 Friday pattern a few weeks ago I bought it.

Metra Blazer - Love Notions Sewing Patterns

I watched a few YouTube videos on construction as well as reading the instructions and watching the linked videos. They all varied a little so I mostly followed the advice and did a few bits my own way. Its all worked out fine.

Sizing - I measured myself and chose the size which matched up with my measurements - this was an XL. I did a full bicep alteration on the sleeve. The fit is fine. 

As you can see the back hem is slightly raised which is more pronounced on me, I think on the next version I need to do a high round back alteration (normal for me).

Fabric - I used 2 co-ordinating jacquard double knits I had in stash. These were very spongy, and a bit thick when it came to topstitching etc. It also ravelled and needed to be finished with the overlocker.

I used the larger design for the front back and sleeves, and the smaller design for the side panels, pocket flaps and collar facing. I think it's worked out quite well.

The sort of welt pockets are really clever and I enjoyed doing them. There are not really any pockets, its just an opening into the inside of the facing. You do get a glimpse of the wrong side of the fabric, which isn't that attractive in this knit, so bear that in mind.

The shoulder and neck seam was a bit tricky in this fabric. I would probably had an easier time if I'd interfaced the snip area. Maybe next time!

I really like the pattern and will be trying the other view next.

Slim leg black trousers

 

I made some slim leg trousers from a stretch bengaline fabric and decided to use the Monsal lounge pants pattern. This is for knit fabrics, and didn't translate directly to the stretch woven. However scooping the crotch and tightening the elastic has sorted the problem and these should be good basics.

Monsal Lounge Pant pattern from the Wendy Ward Book "A Beginner's Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics".