Paisley Shirt & Skirt

I know it's been a while since I posted, but I have been working on the Paisley pieces. Its been quite a journey, but I'm finally happy with them both. This is quite a long post but I've moved the details of the issues and solutions to the bottom if you don't want to read them!

Paisley Shirt

This is the usual TNT pattern I use for my shirts. For this version I have pattern matched across the front and the two patch pockets. For the rest of the shirt I have kept the print the same way up, but not attempted to specifically pattern match. I felt this was a reasonable compromise between looking good and using the fabric carefully.

I used small brown variegated shirt buttons which I had in the stash.

Paisley Skirt

I carefully cut the skirt panels with the print the same way up as the on the shirt.

I drafted some inseam pockets which are attached to the waistband and side seams but hang freely below the 1st tier. I used a plain cotton fabric so as not to cut into my precious print scraps.

For the skirt I used OOP Simplicity 4499. I changed to an elastic waist and added pockets.

Some of the issues I encountered

I cut the shirt out first and did a few steps on it. Then went back and cut out the skirt, made that up. The bottom tier stuck out too much.  Removed the bottom tier and measured it, cut a bit off, re-added it. 

Made the shirt up. Decided to add pockets. Pockets were not level. Went through scraps, no repeat of that section of the print, so could not cut new pockets.

Wore the skirt out. Decided it wasn't quite working so removed the waistband, pockets and yokes, trimmed them down, trimmed down the first tier, sewed it all back together. 

Unpicked both pockets from the shirt. Trimmed the top off one and the bottom off the other. Remade the pockets and reattached them. Finally did the hem.

Plans for Mini-Wardobe

It's finally time to fully use this lovely paisley fabric I've been hanging onto for ages. I've cut a waistband facing off one end but still have 3.4 metres of 150cm wide fabric.

I think I'm going to make a shirt style blouse, and skirt (possibly with tiers). They can then be worn as a dress look or separately

Then I want some Itch to Stitch Mountain View pull on jeans in this lovely dark brown stretch denim

A turtleneck top in this lovely shade of teal

And a jacket in this lovely petrol fleece

I'm hoping to enter the capsule into the Pattern Review Mini Wardrobe Contest.

Cyclamen Pink Top

 

Another turtleneck this time in a cyclamen pink double knit from the remnant basket.

I'm not quite sure how well this colour suits me so I'll make sure I add a tag in case I need to donate it later.

I do seem to be having a Pink phase recently

Pink stripe top

 

Another turtleneck from OOP New Look 6008. I've altered the sleeve for a full bicep and the back piece for a high round back.

Pale Pink Top

I used the long sleeved collared top from OOP New Look 6008. I've altered the sleeve for a full bicep and the back piece for a high round back.

I have made lots of tops from tis pattern now, but not all of the colours looked great up by my face, so some have gone on to other homes. 

Sapphire Blocks

 I've finally completed the Sapphire Blocks for the Sparkling Stars Quilt.

The next thing will be to decide on the layout. Due to fabric resources I made 4 of the purple (amethyst) but 5 of all the others.....

Woodrose Pink Trousers

 

Trousers to match the jacket, using a pattern from Burda March 2011.

Here are the trousers with the jacket.

There's a waistcoat in progress too

Woodrose Pink Jacket

 

This is my wood rose (dusty pink) jacket in faux silk dupioni fabric (possibly intended for home dec) made from Butterick B4610 View B. I added a little bit of extra width in the sleeves 

For a pattern rated as 'Easy' I didn't find that it was really, though a lot of my issues were to do with the very stiff and fraying fabric I used. I love the colour and slubbed texture so persevered.

I found a suitable button in my button drawers. Hopefully this will work over the purple skirt and top.

Here's the pink jacket over the purple two piece.

I'm planning on making some other Woodrose pieces as I have lots of the fabric. Next up some wide leg trousers, then maybe a waistcoat and skirt or dress.....

A Pink Pipa Pouch

 

Here's my latest Pipa Pouch in the larger size.

Free PDF Bag Sewing Pattern, Pouch PDF Sewing Pattern, Bag Sewing Pattern, DIY Purse Sewing Pattern — Sewing Patterns by Masin

I cut this one out in December but didn't manage to sew it up then.

I lined it with a bright poly cotton print which I also used for the tabs. The outer is hot pink baby cord.

Used an old (rather battered) pink metal dress zip and added a bit of ribbon to make the pull easier.

I hand wound at the point I was sewing over the metal teeth and had no issues :-)

Burgundy 3/4 sleeve top

As I already had the machines threaded up in burgundy I cut into a remnant in a similar colour, though I did change the needle of the sewing machine to a stretch needle.

As the fabric was a weighty 100% cotton knit with no stretch I chose a simple boxy pattern - The Closet Core Tee - which is a free pattern.

I made the 3/4 sleeve version, in a length somewhere between the cropped and the longer length. Due to fabric limitations my 3/4 sleeves were not quite long enough so I drafted up some shaped cuffs to extend the sleeves.

Before I constructed the tee I embroidered a heart in contrast pink thread to add a bit of interest.

Using precious fabric (Irish Linen)

I put all the buttons and buttonholes on even though I'll probably always wear it with the top two open.

There's a challenge doing the rounds at the moment to use your precious fabric. After a bit of thinking I decided to pick this linen and make one of my TNT shirts.

This was a gift in 2008. It's Irish Linen, and was originally its natural colour, a warm beigey brown which did not flatter my skin tone.

In 2013 I included it in a dyeing session using Dylon Flamingo Pink machine dye after which it came out this lovely dusty pink colour.

I still hesitated because I wanted to make a shirt and wasn't sure my skills were up to it. I made a test of a pattern I wanted to use and it was not a good outcome. I parked that idea.

Time has passed now and I've made quite a few shirts from a Prima shirtdress pattern so I feel happy my skills with that pattern are OK.

My alterations to the pattern are:-

cut the dress down to shirt length

add a continuous bound placket to the sleeve.

replace the gathers at the cuff with two pleats

make the cuff deeper

add patch pockets with buttoned flaps.

New Look 6481 Jacket - now with pockets

 This is the jacket from New Look 6481. Sewn in the fabric leftover from one of C's jackets.

I made a few alterations before cutting out - a high round back alteration and a full bicep alteration.

The sort of high round back alteration I like to use needs easing or introduces a back shoulder dart - in this case that's what I went for.

Otherwise I made the jacket as is except for machine stitching the hems.

I plan to wear this over the top and skirt outfit I posted earlier.

The pattern doesn't have any pockets but I wanted some. So I followed this tutorial

(4698) Sew a one-piece Welt Pocket in under 10 minutes! - YouTube

It took me a great deal longer than 10 minutes, but mostly that was working out the placement and getting it the same on both sides. I did make a couple of changes.

I drew the box on paper and stitched through that with a shortened stitch length. I find that works well on my zipper pocket method. And I sewed up the three remaining pocket sides with separate passes as I had a whole jacket attached! That way I could just fold the jacket the opposite way each time.

I also made my pockets a bit smaller due to fabric limitations and the space on the jacket fronts.

I stitched the top corner of the pocket bags to the facing so they don't droop.

Some shots of how it looks with the pockets