Dark Burgundy (Aubergine) Trousers and a SWAP

 

As you know I love to sew in colour families, so after the border print items, I carried on with Dark Burgundy and made my first pair of Delta Cargo Pants by Style Arc.

As I was quite short of fabric I only put the slant pockets in the front, leaving off the cargo pockets and back patch pockets.

Instructions from Style Arc

I had altered the pattern before I cut it out using my preferred crotch curve, but I'd not allowed for the deeper waistband on these so they came out too high on the waist. I cut the waistband off and reattached a narrower waistband lower down to get this pair to fit reasonably.

The legs are quite narrow at the hems (and don't look much like the drawing IMO) so I've altered my pattern to allow extra for the back calf as well as reducing the rise. These are alterations specific to my body so may not be helpful for anyone else!

I do plan to make these again with my alterations and all of the pockets.

I seem to have semi accidentally made a good chunk of a SWAP, the two knit tops were previously made (from the same fabric) but match beautifully with the newer pieces.

Dark Burgundy Border Print Shirt

 

Here's the shirt made from the same border print fabric as the trousers. I only had a very limited section of the border left and decided to use it vertically on the fronts rather than round the shirt hem and I'm really pleased with how its worked out.

I used simple mother of pearl buttons as all my burgundy buttons were slightly off in some way, and I like how the buttons pick up the palest colour in the print - a sort of ecru.

The collar is from a somewhat denser area of the print, with the sleeves and back from a sparser area of print.

I used View C from Simplicity 9200 omitting the ruffle from the sleeve as I felt it didn't fit with the clean lines. I also omitted the back darts as I thought they might pull in this very soft viscose/rayon.

Khaliah Ali patterns for BHMPatternDesigners

Sew Natural Dane is encouraging the sewing community to sew patterns designed by Black Pattern Designers.

Her website contains a huge list of current Black Pattern Designers and other black owned sewing businesses.

#BHMPatternDesigners — SewNaturalDane

What is #BHMPatternDesigners?

The Black History Month Pattern Designer Challenge (#BHMPatternDesigners) was established in February 2019 by Nateida of SewNaturalDane. Nateida decided to created this challenge due to the lack of representation she saw in the sewing community that highlighted Black Pattern Designers, as well as black owned fabric companies and knitting designers. February is Black History Month in the United States and it’s also Nateida’s birthday month!

I have a huge back catalogue of sewing patterns so looked through them to discover I have 10 Khaliah Ali patterns from when she designed through Simplicity. So I'm hoping to sew something (I'm not sure what yet) from one of those.

I love sewing wardrobe collections and have always been attracted to patterns which featured multiple garments, so that might be why I have so many.

Are you taking part in BHMPatternDesigners? If so what are you sewing?

#BHMPatternDesigners25 on Instagram

Dark Burgundy Border Print Wide Legs trousers

I've made some Palazzo pants (wide leg trousers) in one of my border print fabrics.

the trousers

the fabric

I cut these out crosswise to get the border print running round the hem.

I used New Look 6438, but replaced the shaped waistband with a straight one 4 inches wide. The front is interfaced, but the back is elasticated (I sized up and omitted the back darts).

As always when making trousers I reshaped the crotch curve to make it more L shaped and much longer at the back to fit my body.

I've also cut out a matching shirt, but not started sewing that yet.

Adding a zip to a RTW hoodie

This is a RTW hoodie which originally just pulled over the head. I found I didn't choose to wear it and decided to add a front zip.

(I've placed the sleeve over the logo which was embroidered onto the hoodie).

These are the steps I did, and what I might do instead next time.

1. Mark the centre front by measuring in several places and joining the lines up - I used a sliver of soap.

1b. I didn't do this on this hoodie but would do in future. Apply a strip of iron on interfacing the width of the zip to the centre of the hoody on the wrong side. This stops the fabric from stretching later.

2. Cut down the centre front, unpicking any sections of the hood that overlap at the front neck.

3. Overlock (serge) the front edge with differential below 1 (to avoid stretching the front edge).

4. With the edge of the zipper tape to the overlocked edge and right sides together, use a zipper foot to stitch the edge of the zipper tape to the front of the hoodie on both sides.

5. Flip the zip out to the right side and pin in place. Topstitch.

6. At the neck edge, tuck the top of the zipper tape up into the bottom of the hood. Add a few hand stitches to secure (I found it fiddly) and then stitch over them with the machine for strength.

Wine Fleece Jacket

My latest make is a lovely wine coloured zip front jacket.

This replaces a favourite RTW version which got stained and was very worn. The zip was in good condition though so I rescued it and have reused it here.

The fabric is from Pound Fabrics . It is their Anti Pill polar fleece in Wine - their picture is more accurate on the colour.

This is my 3rd fleece using the Windbreaker pattern from Ottobre Magazine (Ottobre Woman 5/2014 model 17) and I like the fit the best (I keep tweaking it).

This time I took out some of the extra I'd added at the hips and replaced the shaped pockets with rectangular ones which I caught into the front zip - this makes that area a bit bulky though so a tiny bit more tweaking required for the next version.

I used invisible zippers in the pockets and with the invisible zipper foot and the fleece the tape doesn't show at all. That's good to know when I can't get the pocket and front zippers to match perfectly for future versions.

In case I can't remember how I did the pockets I'll put the steps here for myself next time!

Cut out 2 pockets in fleece and 2 pocket linings in another fabric. The pockets cut in fleece are about 1/4" wider where they attach to the zip. Finish the edges which will be near the zip.

Finish the edges of the front panel and side panel.

If using an invisible zipper, stitch it to the side panels and front panel before sewing up the rest of the sea,. If using a standard zipper, sew the seam first leaving a gap and then add the zip.

Sew the main pocket (cut in fleece)to the zipper tape and side panel seam allowance. Sew the pocket lining to the front panel zip and seam allowance. Leave enough space to sew the two pocket sections together.

Fold both pocket pieces towards the centre front. Stitch round the pockets and then finish the edges. Align the pocket side and bottom so they will be caught into the front zipper topstitching and the hem.

Also consider using the walking foot when hemming to avoid stretching the fleece out.

Prima Pattern February 2025 Quilted Jacket

 

I used the pattern from Prima magazine Feb 2025 to make myself a quilted jacket. They suggested using quilted yardage, but I didn't like the colourways of those available locally, so instead cut up a green bedspread with a quilted effect.

I made the longer view with pockets (view A) but added buttons and buttonholes. I made my own bias trim (1.5 inches wide) from a pretty floral remnant from Auntie J's stash and some buttons from my drawer.

The jacket is quite oversized, but I found the sleeves to be only just long enough. I made a size 18 UK.

McCall's 7131 Olive Culottes

 

Here's my version of M7131, supposedly the 'skirt' part of my SteamPunk Lady Explorer Costume. I used some olive twill suiting as the match was good.

As well as the standard curved front pockets I added a side pocket with an invisible zip, for anything I want to keep contained.

Instead of the multiple rows of narrow elastic I went for 1 piece of wide elastic. They are very comfortable though the back isn't very flattering in wear.

I would make these again, though probably in a softer fabric, as the twill suiting is fairly heavy.

Border and Panels Prints

I've been in my fabric resources auditioning border and panel prints to see if any of them could work for the PR Border Print or Panel Contest

Plum coloured border print, this one is saying wide leg trousers. I have 3.5 metres of 150cm wide fabric, so this is my most likely candidate. I might even be able to squeeze a little top from the leftovers.

I have 1.1 metres of this brown jersey fabric which almost has an abstract horizon of buildings - not sure if this meets the rules. Only enough for a top, might need to augment with plain brown.

I have 3 panels of the beautiful scarf print, but its only 89cm wide (35 inches). 3 panels is about 2.5 metres. I think it would make a lovely summer shirt, but layout might be tricky!

And finally I have 1.3 metres of this which is only 87cm wide. I don't have any navy the right shade to augment it, so suspect it'll go back in the box.