Half zip to full zip fleece rework

 I've found I much prefer a fleece if it unzips all the way down and has zipped pockets. So in between other projects I've gradually started converting them.

Here's a link to the navy blue one I did first

The second one was a different brand and had a contrast collar lining and partial facing (not binding as the navy one). This meant a lot more unpicking and some fiddling about to correctly get the zip inside the facing. I did have to unpick some of the topstitching.

I'll note down what I did as an aid memoire to myself for the next one!

For the front zip

1. Unpick the old zip.

2. Iron a strip of interfacing to the back area where the front zip will go using a cool iron.

3. Cut the centre front open and overlock each of the cut edges.

4. Place the right side of the zipper tape to the edge of the front and stitch near the edge, being careful both sides of the zip line up.

5. Re-stitch the collar and facing seam (which was unpicked earlier) enclosing the top of the zip (fold excess zipper tape to one side and secure with a couple of hand stitches).

6. Topstitch the entire zipper tape and centre front collar edge

For the pockets

For the zipped pockets I followed a method from Barbara Emodi's book "Sew...The Garment-Making Book of Knowledge" its on page 56 "Easy Zippered pockets".

1. On the wrong side of the jacket lightly iron some rectangles of interfacing (cool iron).

2. On the right side lay a piece of fabric which becomes the pocket (rights sides together). Over this pin a piece of tissue paper marked with a long thin rectangle. In this case the box was 6 1/2" long by 1/4" wide. This matches with the interfacing on the other side.

3. Stitch round the box with short stitches. Cut the box open as normal (long slit down the middle and into the 4 corners).

4. Pull the pocket fabric through the box, they say to press with an iron but on fleece I prefer to hand tack the box opening.

5. Place the zipper behind the rectangular opening, pin or tack in place, stitch round box to attach the zip (being careful not to catch any of the pocket fabric).

6. Fold the fabric round to form the pocket, trim as required, then stitch round the edge of the pocket. I like to hand stitch it to the front zipper tape to stop the pocket drooping.

Another Piece for my Emerald Accents Collection