Dark Grey Bengaline Trousers

I've made a few pairs of bengaline (or similar stretch woven) trousers and they are often worn, so here's a dark grey pair. For these I interfaced the front waistband between the pockets to give a more flat front.

You can probably guess what pattern I used - yes its New Look 6216

As always I leave off the front tie and on this version I've extended the pockets slightly and lengthened the leg. A 4cm hem finish with blind hem stitching works with the stretch of the garment.

July - Think Pink

The Sewing Place has a Think Pink contest in July.
https://thesewingplace.org.uk/index.php/topic,10372.0.html

I didn't think I had a lot of pink in my fabric cupboard but actually I've found a few, several are overdye results of things which were too orange for me, others were bought as they are.

Hmm would I wear some dusty pink linen trousers? Maybe, but perhaps a bit of a waste of something which is a good colour near my face!

SWAP colourway garments (with new tops)

OK so here's a quick view of the things sewn so far.

If we look back at the rules

Your Perfect Vision - SWAP 2020
11 pieces, in two groups:

• 9 or 10 that may coordinate (be worn together) to form outfits
• 1 or 2 that MUST coordinate (be able to be worn with all of the others)  (1 if you make 10 other pieces, 2 if you make 9)

So I have chosen that the coat MUST be able to be worn with everything else

And that the remaining 10 garments MUST be able to make wearable outfits.

Additionally I want to include the silk top as that fabric was the original inspiration.

And I need to make sure any jackets or cardigans fit under the coat OK, and I won't have both of the animal print tops.

Here's what I have decided to include

1. Coat

2. Red cardigan

3. Black cardigan
4. Black zip front jacket

5. Silk print top

6. Animal print top

7. Grey top

8. Floral shirt

9. Black bengaline trousers

10. Black pinstripe trousers

11. Tartan trousers

Viscose and jersey T top

Viscose and jersey T top - New Look 6216 

This is the long sleeved top that is part of my favourite New Look 6216 pattern (I use the trousers all the time). I cut the front from a viscose woven fabric and the back and neckband from grey jersey.

Compared to the New Look 6420 top it is shorter, and a lot less batwing in shape, but the longer sleeved version has a bateau neckline which I would change in future. The short sleeved version is a different pattern piece and has more of a scooped neckline.
So I think any future versions are likely to take elements from both views.

Silk and jersey dolman sleeve top

New Look 6420 - Silk and jersey dolman sleeve top

I bought this silk fabric on a sewing weekend in London in July 2010. It is the inspiration for my SWAP colourway so I wanted to include it, but in a simple easy wear garment that suits the new normal.
The jersey was in my stash but bought before lockdown from the local fabric shop.

I picked New Look 6420, and initially made it up as the pattern. I then reshaped it so it came in closer under the arms and in the bust/waist area, flaring back out at the hem.

I also folded the neckband over and stitched it down for a clean finish and narrower neckband.
I finished the hems with a baby hem, as a coverhem hem would be prone to fraying on the woven.

I find the neckband on this is too wide and the overall shape rather too boxy, especially at this tunic length. I may shorten it in future, but reshaped it is much better.

SWAP colourway garments sewn and planned

Here are all the garments I've sewn (or cut out) in the SWAP colourway. I will need to narrow it down for the final selection.

The line drawings are placeholders for

- silk/ jersey top - New Look 6420 top  - sewn but needs tweaking
- viscose / jersey top - New Look 6216 top- sewn but needs tweaking

- charcoal bengaline trousers - New Look 6216 trs- cut out only

Style Arc Molly in grey knit

Style Arc Molly in grey knit

 

As I had used this grey knit as the backs of the two woven tops (not yet shared), I only had limited yardage, so have cuffs for the bottom of the sleeves. I've also split the tuck into multiple tucks, and have it on the other side, otherwise as per pattern.

This is another items for my SWAP colour palette, and makes a fun outfit with the red cardigan and tartan trousers.

Cutting out marathon

Yesterday I had a cutting out session for about 3 hours, mostly TnTs

Refreshing the summer nightwear

- mint green PJ trousers - New Look 6216 trs
- mint green PJ top - copied from RTW.
- pale mint cropped PJ trousers - New Look 6216 trs

More for the SWAP colourway

- silk/ jersey top - New Look 6420 top
- viscose / jersey top - New Look 6216 top
- grey jersey top - Style Arc Molly

- charcoal bengaline trousers - New Look 6216 trs

Then I sewed up both

- silk/ jersey top - New Look 6420 top

- viscose / jersey top - New Look 6216 top

but I think some tweaking is required so not ready to share just yet.

Navy basic trousers and culottes

These two pieces are useful but boring, both cut from the same fabric a dark navy with a little stretch.
I have 1.7 metres of the fabric left so may end up with some capris as well.

First up plain trousers from New Look 6216, my current TNT.

Then culottes adapted from the culottes in Butterick 6947. I used my adapted crotch curve and added a full waistband to give a better fit for me.

These have come out quite skirt like which should be comfortable in warmer weather.

I like culottes but they are sometimes hard to style, so here's some ideas I found online.

This one keeps it simple with trainers a tee and casual jacket.

Here in a print dressed up with heels.

And with block heeled sandals in fiery red.

Black Lives Matter

The recent Black Lives Matter protests have made me more aware of whether I see variety of skin tones in the things I read, watch, follow etc. 

I'm definitely not overtly racist, but I am a product of my white upbringing and culture, where white is normal/standard. I want to break this programming and be different.

(87% of people in the UK are White, and 13% belong to a Black, Asian, Mixed or Other ethnic group, according to the combined 2011 censuses for England and Wales, Scotland, and Northern Ireland.)

I need to change my choices and perceptions, so I'm starting with small things:-

I actively look at the level of diversity when watching TV programmes and adverts.

I've added some new to me You Tube channels to my feed as I seemed to be following a lot of women a bit like me.

I emailed Burda magazine to say I won't be buying their magazine until they stop only having white models. (I've bought it every month since 2010, but no more).

I think this probably needs to extend to the Big Four as well. So I need to be more aware with any sewing magazines and patterns that I buy.

DBF and I have been reading and had a few conversations. We are not there yet, but we're thinking and challenging ourselves.

https://www.imperial.ac.uk/equality/resources/how-to-be-a-white-ally/