Oldest UFO finished - Sophisticated Safari Jacket

That's UFO as in Un Finished Object.

So the story goes something like this. 

Back in 2008 (that's 15 years ago!) I had the idea for a 'Sophisticated Safari' type collection and cut out a jacket from OOP Simplicity 4231.

Here's my May 2008 blog post about my ideas

Sew Ruthie Style: Sophisticated Safari (ruthieksews1.blogspot.com)

By June 2008 I had sewed up the other pieces in the collection and posted about those, but the jacket was too hard and was packed away in a clear zip lock bag.

Sew Ruthie Style: Sophisticated Safari so far (ruthieksews1.blogspot.com)

I then went through a lot of change in my life (moving 3 times in 2 years and getting divorced. 

The next time I dug out the jacket was in October 2016

Sew Ruthie Style: Simplicity 4231 Green Tropical Wool Safari Jacket (ruthieksews1.blogspot.com)

I worked on it a bit and posted about it again in November 2016

Sew Ruthie Style: Simplicity 4231 Green Tropical Wool Safari Jacket (ruthieksews1.blogspot.com)

I next came back to the project in Jan 2021 as part of the UFO sew along on TSP

"I have a UFO started quite a few years ago now. It is an olive green wool jacket in a sort of Safari style, with lots of pockets and a belt. I decided I needed to line it, which meant working out what to do to draft the lining which at the time seemed too hard. I could probably manage to do it now. However its a size too small so not entirely sure what I'd do with it once finished. Hmm maybe a bit of try on would be a good idea, I have got some scraps left so could add panels....."

Then in August 2022 I wrote on my TSP diary thread

"I've fished Doris (the Dressmakers Dummy) out of the corner, and found she's still wearing the half made jacket which is my oldest UFO.So I think I might sew a few seams on the UFO jacket (it uses the same thread colour as the trenchcoat) to get it to a point where it could sit on a jacket hanger and free Doris up for the trenchcoat as I assemble that. I am seriously out of love with the jacket but hey ho."

Yesterday I put the sleeves in the jacket and tried to attach the facing bits that were not yet sewn. Something isn't quite right as I have a tiny gap where the collar and revere come together. This is the problem with taking many years to work on a garment in bits, you've forgotten what you did last time. Anyway it was enough together that I could pop it on a hanger and free up Doris for the trenchcoat.

And on another thread at the end of August

I should finish the pesky UFO jacket of doom as the thread from my last project matches it (I am wondering about undoing parts of it and using a slightly different construction method, even though I hate unpicking).

And then it'd make sense to sew something which co-ordinates with it, like some trousers. I have some striped stretch woven fabric in darkish hues.

Then maybe a soft jersey poloneck (turtleneck) to go under the jacket, something in a cheerful colour to cheer up all that darkness.

After all this the jacket went away again still unfinished. In all those attempts though I had drafted a lining, sewn and then unpicked the collar, added a panel to make the sleeve wider and inserted the sleeves.

Finally a few days ago I pulled the pieces out of the bag, popped them on the dummy and had a think about finishing the jacket.

Having recently finished C's jacket, I was in a fairly jacket like mode, so decided to use my common sense (and acquired knowledge on jackets) to sew the bits up the best I could without looking at the instructions which had caused me problems with the collar.

I gave things a press, assembled the lining and set the lining sleeves in. Then put the collar on, and added the lining. Bagged the lining. Front buttonhole and sewed the buttons on.

This I did over multiple sessions over several days and its finally finished!

Its only taken 15 years!

Skirt Suit for a Friend

 I've done some more sewing for my friend C. She really likes blue.

This blue tee is based on Simplicity 8376. I've added an FBA, shortened the body and scooped the front neck slightly. I also slightly lengthened the sleeves and then added a hem band, so the sleeves are now nearer to elbow length.

This blue jacket is based on the jacket in Simplicity 9473 with an FBA and the hems straightened out.

Then I took the skirt panels from the S9473 dress, added a little at the waist and put on an elasticated waistband.

The three pieces can be worn together as a skirt suit.

When C came to try the clothes on, only the skirt fitted as is. The jacket was made into a V neck style as the upper neckline kept flipping out, larger sleeves added (as the original ones were too tight) and the hem shortened (more at the back than the front).

The tee was too big in the back and the sleeves and was taken in.

I'd also made a dress (not pictured which was OK in the sleeves, too long in the body and too wide in the back.

I am learning what alterations I need to make for things to fit C nicely.

Sundress for a friend

My friend C had a favourite sundress that she'd worn until it was falling apart. I was able to copy it and make her a new one with some fabric she provided. I think its a great choice.

The fabric is a tropical leaf print in 100% cotton. I think it'll be cool to wear and wash well.

Here it is spread out flat

And turned inside out so you can see the seaming.

A few notes on the copying process.

I laid the dress out so that I could copy half of the back, half of the front, the front side panel and the back side panel. I laid tissue paper over the top and traced round with a pencil. I then added seam allowances and cut out the tissue pattern pieces.

Next I took and old striped duvet cover and cut the dress out and sewed it up. This highlighted a couple of minor issues with my pattern which I corrected. 

I then got C to try the duvet cover dress on. From the try on she decided she wanted to lengthen it at the front for the final version. I made the alterations to the front pattern pieces. 

The fabric layout was quite a tight squeeze as the fabric was only 45" wide. I folded the fabric so it was just wide enough for the front and back pieces and cut those out on the fold first. Next I cut out the side extensions (single layer) and finally cut 2" wide bias strips to finish the neckline and armholes.

First I sewed the front side panels to the front piece, then the back side panels to the back piece. Then the front to the back at the shoulders and sides. I overlocked the seams together.

I then did a bias bound finish on the neckline and armholes, stitching a folded bias strip to the wrong side, then flipping it to the right side and stitching down.

The hems were double turned and hemmed with a straight stitch. It was bulky on the corners.

The second dress made from this pattern.

Fabric Purchases June 2023

 Fabric purchases June 2023

I went shopping yesterday and picked up a few new fabrics. There were others I considered and left behind, but I'm pleased with what I have.

far left - 2m of 100% cotton floral, likely to be a shirt

2nd from left - 2m of 100% viscose floral, likely to be a blouse

3rd from left - 2m of red and white seersucker, shirt or maybe a shirt dress

3rd from right - 2m of red and white polka dot fabric (for the polka dot challenge!)

2nd from right - 4 metres of stretch denim to keep me in jeans

far right - a remnant of very stretchy black knit, probably used in the place of ribbing for cuffs etc

Soft teal baby cord shirt

 Many years ago I bought a length of soft blue/grey/teal babycord with a section of beading and embroidery across it.

I think I'd intended to make a gathered skirt, but as I don't really wear them it stayed uncut in my stash.

It has now been turned into a shirt. To maximise the embroidered section I cut the front and back with the detail running near the hem, the sleeves, collar and cuffs are plain, though I did need to line the cuffs with a contrast scrap of paisley cotton from Auntie Joy's stash.

front

side

fabric details

cuff detail

back

For the pattern I used the Prima March 2020 shirtdress cut down to a shirt. It is a very economical pattern for short yardages.

Teal joggers and cardigan

I had a length of nice teal ponte knit fabric.

I was able to cut a pair of Monsal Lounge Pants, from the Wendy Ward Book, A Beginners Guide to Sewing with Knits and the Classic length of the Free Harper knit cardigan from Sinclair Patterns.

This is the version with the separate waistband and pockets, but without the cuffs.

This is the 'classic' length, with pockets. I wasn't able to cut the sleeve quite the full length so made the cuffs slightly deeper and wider to keep the length. Its worked well.

It might be a bit too matchy to wear them together but I can see them being great pieces in my SWAP and wardrobe in general

Here's what the SWAP is looking like so far

Sewing Goodies

I'm back from 2 and a half week's holiday, a leisurely multi stop trip down to Cornwall and back seeing lots of different friends and family en route.

Along the way I picked up fabric (from a friend and a family member), patterns (from a friend), Burda Magazine (WHSmiths) and some craft books (Oxfam bookshop), and then came home to a new Prima magazine (with pattern), so lots of sewing inspiration.

We had great weather whilst we were away and its still sunny now we are home again.
I think it is finally time to switch the clothes over and have the summer things out.

I'm not quite sure what to sew next. I have an ongoing SWAP/Capsule Wardrobe, 2 UFOs and some outstanding WIPGO challenges
Or I could make something with my new fabric and patterns.....

The fabrics are mostly quilting cottons, though there are a few lengths which would be enough for a garment.
There is one piece of rayon viscose which is 3 scarf prints. I'll need to decide the best way to showcase the print.

And another which is a striped jersey with sellotape marks - have to see if they come off in the wash.

Itch to Stitch Mountain View Hiking Pants

 

These are my newest hiking trousers. I used the Itch to Stitch Mountain View Jeans with a few alterations.

Used lightweight stretch woven fabric bought on holiday in Madeira. 

Put the two back leg pieces together as one.

Left off lots of the extra topstitching. 

Added two extra side seam pockets which close with invisible zips.

Added 6 belt loops.

More Monsal Lounge Pants

I made two pairs of the Monsal Lounge Pants, from the Wendy Ward Book, A Beginners Guide to Sewing with Knits. 

One pair is black, the other dark grey marl.

Although it's easy enough for me to buy RTW joggers they don't fit me well, so I'm working through sewing my own so the old ones can be donated recycled.

The Workout (Tessellate) tee

This is my take on the free 'Workout Tee' I downloaded from Love Sewing many years ago. I've recently stuck it together and made it up.

This is the front with a slightly scooped front neckline.

This is the back which has the small triangle on the other side.

So that when sewn up they make a lovely point at the side.

Slight downsides, the pattern takes 36 pages to print out and the instructions are in Love Sewing Magazine issue 23 not in the download as is the sizing.

https://blog.fehrtrade.com/inspiration/1064/announcing-the-tessellate-tee-pattern/

This was later developed further by Melissa Fehr to be her Tessellate tee pattern which has extras like a hood and thumb loops and is £8.49 

https://shop.fehrtrade.com/products/tessellate-tee

I've made my own cut about tees in the past, so I managed OK without the instructions.

Here's what I did

1. Stick together the pdf pages and cut out the pattern pieces. I went with a size L (more on that later).

2. Cut the upper front, upper back, neckband and two mirror image sleeves out of the the print fabric making sure to keep the right side of the fabric up and the pattern pieces right side up. Everything is cut single layer, with the sleeve piece flipped over for the second sleeve.

3. Cut the side font and side back out of the pink fabric single layer making sure to keep the right side of the fabric up and the pattern pieces right side up.

4. Cut the lower font and lower back out of the black fabric single layer making sure to keep the right side of the fabric up and the pattern pieces right side up.

Note: all the pattern pieces are different, so I was very careful with right sides.

5. I laid the front pieces out together, stitched the black to the pink and then those two to the print. I did the same with the back pieces and then pressed. 

6. With some twill tape to secure the shoulder seam I stitched and overlocked the shoulders. I then made up and inserted the neckband following the notches provided.

NOTE: I chose to do all the internal seams stitched and overlocked in ivory.

7. I measured the sleeves and realised they would be too long as drafted so did a 5cm hem instead of the recommended 2cm. I hemmed on the coverhem machine in ivory.

8. I inserted the sleeves flat and sewed up the side seams, carefully lining up the panel seams. I then tried the top on and found the shoulders were too wide and the sleeves still slightly too long. I removed the sleeves, trimmed down the armhole and sleeve cap a bit and reinserted.

9. I rethreaded the coverhem in black and stitched the main hem on the black fabric. I increased the recommended hem from 2cm to 3cm.

10. I gave the top a press and did some photos.

Pink Vera Knit Top

This is the FREE Vera Knit Top from Forget-Me-Not Patterns.

I used a mystery pink knit from stash. As this didn't have a lot of stretch and I don't like my tee shirts to have negative ease (ie to rely on the elastane/lycra to stretch to fit) I sized up but used a 1cm seam allowance instead of 6mm. However it is quite loose in the body so I might not do that in future.

I love the gathered sleeves into the long cuffs and the neat V neckline. It also has a slight high-low hem line which is flattering.

Tropical Pink Top

 TNT New Look 6735 top with 3/4 sleeves and a scoop neckline

The fabric was an online purchase in November last year (Fabrics for All ) as part of the closing down sale.

The photo below was from their site, it seems brighter in person :-)

Tropical Digital Print Jersey - Ivory and Pink Multi

Although Fabrics For All have closed now, this fabric is on the Minerva site with a more realistic colour balance.

I've sewn this for the Pantone Viva Magenta contest over on The Sewing Place.

The 6 yard wardrobe

 In the book Sewing A Travel Wardrobe by Kate Matthews from 1999 she writes 

The Six- Yard Wardrobe

Designer Joyce Cusick has a busy life that includes lots of travel both for pleasure and business. She also loves to keep an eye out for special fabrics wherever she goes. She developed a 'six-yard wardrobe' approach to travel sewing after several trips to the local fabric store for more of the same material. She started with enough of the royal blue linen blend shown on these pages to make the skirt and slacks. She liked working with the fabric so much that she went back twice for more, to make the jacket and then the dress. The garments have become a well-travelled all-weather wardrobe and she reports she's worn them in various combinations at least three hundred times.

Joyce realised that if she consistently bought 6 yards of solid colour fabric, she would always have enough to sew a complete basic wardrobe that includes jacket, slacks, skirt, top and sometimes a dress.

Knowing this ahead of time makes it easy and fun to shop for fabric. She doesn't have to know precisely how much to buy of a good find at the fabric store or street market, but she's always sure that there will be enough to make up a well-coordinated grouping of versatile garments.

Today, all of her travel clothes are created from six-yard wardrobes, plus a few print accent garments and an assortment of accessories.

Spring Garden 

Joyce must be a smallish size, and likes sleeveless knee length dresses as there's no way I could get all of those garments out of 5.5 metres in my size and style preferences. I think I must've worked this out after buying a few 6m lengths, but then thought that was still useful for capsule wardrobes, and particularly for the ideas I had at the time for sewing interesting trouser suits for work.

Dress Up Any Season

Cross-Season Wardrobe