Burda 10-2008-132 Corduroy trousers reworked

I made these corduroy trousers in 2009 - on hanger in 2009 (3 houses ago).

I didn't record it but I'm pretty sure I used Burda 10-2008-132, as the other pair of trousers made at the same time with the same styling did use that pattern.
Something went a bit wrong with them at the time and they did not fit the cotton print waist facing. So as I was trying to meet a deadline for a PR contest I just put some pleats in the front and called it done. They looked like this.

The whole wardrobe came 4th in the PR Wardrobe Contest but I was not happy with these trousers.

I must admit I don't love the corduroy trousers which came out rather shapeless (far right), so they are going to have a makeover. They are very comfortable but definitely look like they should be worn by a Cheshire farmer with his wellies and coat which was not quite the look I was going for.

So not quite 7 years later I have actually got round to it! I changed the side invisible zip from a pale blue one which was a bit too obvious to a darker blue one. It still doesn't match exactly but is a good depth of colour and insrted nicely.
I cut a straight waistband from scraps with a seam at the side, removed the front pleats I had added and sewed the waistband on, adding a tab with buttonhole and a button. They fit quite well (as I'm a bit fatter then than now). And here I am wearing them with the the teal poloneck (turtleneck) from the 2013 SWAP.

 With top tucked in so you can see the waistband and shape.

With top out as I think I need this for proportion.

I'm pleased with these and can see me wearing them through the Autumn and Winter.
If I manage to lose some more weight they may need another remake!

Simplicity 4231 Green Tropical Wool Safari Jacket

Someone, I suspect a former Ruthie, perhaps around 2010 when it was the Botanical Garden SWAP, or maybe even in 2008 when doing the Sophisticated Safari collection (all long gone) cut out the belted jacket from Simplicity 4231 in some lovely tropical wool in a dark olive green.

This former Ruthie chose a size 16 (happily near my current size), a flattering view, View A (top in orange), and carefully put all the cut out pieces with their pattern tissue still attached, with the other tissue, the instructions and the envelope neatly into a plastic zip lock bag.

Time passed and I came across this when sewing the current green pieces. "Ah ha", I thought to myself "another green thing to sew up, and I don't even have to change the thread and its all already cut out."

I read the instructions a couple of times and was impressed at former Ruthie's enthusiasm for a relatively complex project, but slightly amused that former Ruthie had not actually sewn it up. I worked happily on another green project (changing the zip and waistband on some teal green corduroy trousers which were bodged into the 2009 SWAP Inspired by the Sea, which I will share tomorrow.

Then I started constructing the jacket. I did tailor tacks and pressed etc, constructing the back and then decided to check through all the components to be clear what I had, what needed interfacing, marking etc.

You have guessed by this point that former Ruthie was a bit of an airhead and you'd be right.
A few of the pieces are labelled things like - cut 4 and cut 2 on fold etc. - and sadly former airhead Ruthie has only cut 2 or 1 on the fold. So I shall only be able to get so far and then I'll have to stop and see if I can find any scraps of the old fabric, or the skirt or trousers from the Sophisticated Safari set to canabalise (in fact the name tells me that maybe I planned the jacket to go with these bottoms as its the same fabric). If some intermediate Ruthie was overly enthusiastic in her konmari'ing then I may have to use a contrast fabric and make 'feature' of it. I'm wincing already at this thought, but maybe it could work. I also have found the pieces for the tie belt, so depending on the width of the missing pieces may be able to sacrifice the belt and use my matching leather belt instead.

I will keep you posted, and once I have finished my mug of tea go and have a fettle in the boxes in the sewing room. Wish me luck!!!

Burda November 2016 #130

I picked up Burda Magazine for November 2016 on Monday from WHSmiths.
The item I most want to sew is the Plus size wide legged trousers. They are a simple style and hopefully would not take too long to sew.

Women’s plus size wide leg trousers have the proper look for business wear – yet they are incredibly relaxed and comfortable. The straight leg trousers include a comfortable elastic waistband.

I can imagine making these in various dark trouser fabrics including black *
(* I got rid of almost everything black after Fabrickated did my colour analysis as a muted, however I am now a member of a church choir which wears all black with a red scarf as the 'uniform' so need to have a few black pieces to wear despite my colouring).

Wearing dark green - better light

Leggings and tee. I feel very exposed in this, due to the slim fit of the leggings not covering the crotch area and derriere.

Then cardigan belted. This feels fine as things are covered, however that's where my waist is and its maybe a bit high up?

Then cardigan loose. This feels exposed at the front.

With the belt over the tee but under the cardigan (some suggested this). Seems fairly pointless as its not belting anything or holding anything up, and it still has to sit on my natural waist.

 And a closeup showing the fringe growing out and the grey coming through (I've stopped colouring).

Wearing Dark Green

Taken inside after a long day at work, but gives the idea.

Here I am wearing the cardi, tee, skirt, leggings, belt and ankle boots. I also used the green bag (not in shot) and have the necklace on with silver earrings.

Green Collection: Jersey leggings

The green leggings are finished. They are from the same dark green marled jersey as the tee and skirt.

I used McCall's 5309 which I've altered to have a better fit for my shape.
These are too thin to wear alone as trousers so will always be under something else, perhaps the matching skirt.
I hem these on the coverhem, then sew each leg up, then sew the two legs together, zig zag the elastic on and stitch in the ditch. I have added a small tab at centre back to make it easier to know which way round to put them on.

Fabrics for the Green Collection

 Print jersey for dress

 Crinkle for top

 Jersey remnant for top

 Georgette for long shirt

 Stretch woven remnant for skirt

 Dark green woven for trousers

 Self stripe woven for trousers

 Dark green already cut out for jacket

Green suede boos from Clarkes, green suede gloves and green leather bag. All bought at different points. I have green eyes so have picked these up over a few years.

More Green items Planned

I have some more green items planned.
McCall's 5309 leggings in the same dark green jersey as the tee and skirt. These are cut out, sewn up but need the waist elastic adding.

A skirt in plain dark green stretch bengaline from Simplicity 1760, probably a plain version of view F cut as long as the small remnant will allow.

A long shirt/shirt dress from lisette K2246 View B, in a printed stripe georgette, not a recommended fabric, but I hope will work well with the leggings.

A dress from a jersey print using Simplicity 2369

A jacket from Simplicity 4231, view A in a dark green suiting fabric, may need a lining drafting. Cut out a long time ago but never sewn up.

A cowl necked top and a tee shirt from my favourite New Look 6735.
And two pairs of trousers from a Burda magazine pattern.

That's a lot of items and mostly more complicated sewing than my usual quick knits so not sure if I'll manage everything and how long it will take me.

Dark green skirt

The skirt is a simple one made from the back piece of the skirt in Vogue 2989 cut twice.

I've added a small piece of ribbon so I know which is the back (it has the join in the elasic).
Here it is with the tee, cardigan, the other necklace and a beautiful green leather built I have had for years.

I'm loving this.
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The two pink beads in this necklace feel like they do quite fit in the colourscheme. I could easily remove them and have a slightly shorter necklace of the greens/browns and silver only. What do you think? I have a woven print fabric and a knit print I'd like to use they have the various greens and browns in them but not the pink, I think without the pink the necklace would be more harmonious with them.
The pink is in my palette and part of me thinks its fun but part of me thinks it jarring.
Would seeing the print fabrics help?

Dark green tee

The next part of my dark green set is this tee.

This is a slightly altered version of the short sleeved tee from New Look 6735 (my all time most used pattern).

Here it is with the dark green cardigan from the last post and a necklace I already had.

I really pleased with how these look together. I have a skirt and leggings in progress in the same fabric as the tee.

Navy and Green cardigan alterations

I loved the altered dark burgundy cardigan so much that I later altered the navy one from the same shop.
Here it was before

And then after the alteration.

I also altered a dark green one I bought in a different place which was a slightly less extreme drape at the front. Here's some in progress shots to show what I did.

First I laid the cardigan out on the cutting board, folded in half, and pinned the section I was going to cut away.

I then removed this section carefully, leaving some of the collar section as a seam allowance for later.

I then sewed the finished edges of the remaining area together, this will form the new cente back neck/centre collar.

I then refolded this to stitch the neck edge back together (the new centre back neck seam is underneath in this shot).

The new cardigan then looks like this! I really love this one. I wore it less last year and the collar was less extreme so the conversion is quite smart.
I only had three of this style and they've all been converted now. I saved the self belts and the pieces I cut from the back necks as they could be useful for something......

Cufflinks: shank buttons and jewellery wire

Here's some more of the cufflinks made with shank buttons and jewellery wire.

Planning these for the next charity craft stall, should be good for those men or women who wear tailored shirts to work. I've also made a few pairs for myself as I have two work shirts which use cufflinks.