SWAP 2020 black quilted coat

SWAP 2020 has started, and although I didn't manage anything in the gap between the rules being announced and Christmas (where one garment can be sewn), I have now cut out my first project.

I'm using Simplicity 8467, though I don't have the corresponding issue of Threads. I'm using the pattern more as a starting point for my own thing so that's not a big concern.

 The front, collar and hood are all one piece.

I've cut my version out of this pre-quilted fabric (without the fold backs) and will bind the edges.

I've also cut mine 12" longer so it falls more to a midi length.
I've not decided on closures yet, but like the idea of toggles, frog closures etc.
My quilted fabric is quite slippery so without closures I think it may tend to slip off.

There's some fabric left so I'm now thinking about another item from the rest of the fabric, perhaps a Gilet or Kimono.

Trousers / Pants from Burda 12 / 2019

I recently noticed that all 3 of the trouser patterns in Burda Dec 2019 cover a size 46, which really made my day.

Burda 2019-12-124.

Plus wide leg trousers in sizes 44-52

Burda 2019-12-105.

Tapered joggers in sizes 36-46

Burda 2019-12-120.

Ponte side stripe 'Trend Style' in 36-46

(Standard sizes only usually go up to a 44, so not sure why these have the extra size).

All very different styles and all in the same issue. I generally have a reasonably good outcome with Burda trousers (due to the long bias back crotch) though I need to watch the width of the legs particularly at knee and calf. The two tapered styles therefore may need to be a bit straighter in the leg to work for me.

I really love the side stripe detail on #120, could be a great approach to use when trousers are too tight or fabric amounts are short.

No sewing but more fabric

I've not managed any sewing (other than a bit of mending) as I've been busy in the run up to Christmas.
However amongst the other errands I did manage to pop into the local roll end shop and pick up some more fabrics in the SWAP colourway.
Now obviously I won't use all of these but it gives scope for changing plans and wadders!

Wovens

Left - lovely soft tartan fabric, will be skirt or trousers.

Centre - black denim

Right - lots of black bengaline, so useful in the wardrobe.

Knits

Left - Black with grey spots, beautifully soft.

Top - red crinkle knit with smooth back

Bottom - Black textured knit

Right - thick polyester ponte (the sort that kills needles)

Now these colours are in my palette though not my signature colours.

So I can wear them especially with a bright red lipstick

Fabrics for SWAP 2020

I've been gathering black and red fabrics for SWAP 2020 and here are some of the options.
I've moved roles at work, and its a lot less trousers suits, more comfortable separates.

This is some beautiful silk I bought in Goldhawk Road in July 2010. I plan for it to be the front of a top, with the grey jersey as the back. 

This fabric is the inspiration for the whole of my SWAP 2020 both in colourway and in the garment style - a relaxed vibe with touches of oriental luxe.

Next up are some plain black fabrics.

Top Left is charcoal quilted fabric, which will hopefully become a simple unlined coat.

Lower Left is black baby cord.

The two central fabrics are woven wool mix suitable for jackets, and the two right fabrics are plain trouser fabric. I have a number of other plain black fabrics e.g. ponte, jersey and some pinstripe trouser fabrics too, so these selections may change.

Now onto the red. Top left and centre are red ponte fabrics, one a brighter red than the other. Top right is a red and black print jersey.

Bottom left is a small remnant of sweater knit, which would probably need combining with another fabric to make a garment. Bottom centre is a jersey printed with bright splashes of white. Bottom right is some red stretch lace.

More reds. Top left is a woven suiting fabric, used for the body of my moto jacket. Upper and lower right fabrics are jacquard knits used for the sleeves of the moto jacket.  I'm not quite sure what I'd make from these as yet. Lower right is a drapey fabric which could be a blouse or skirt.

Finally a poly jacquard border print and a mesh print.

I won't be using all the these fabrics for the SWAP, but a few have me particularly excited.

DIY Snowflake or star (for purchased jumper)

Here's a simple way to make a normal plain jumper or cardigan (sweater) into something suitable for those 'Christmas Jumper' events.

Old plain navy purchased sweater.
A ball of sparkle yarn from an inexpensive shop.
A yarn needle.

I did a simple running stitch in the shape of my (slightly wonky) star/snowflake and then threaded the yarn through the running stitch tying off at the back.

It took  about half and hour to do.

I can always remove the yarn if I want a plain jumper again.

Next project: La Maison Victor Linna Coat

So it seemed like a good idea to make the Linna Coat from La Maison Victor. Although I have a few magazines I've not actually sewn anything from them, just enjoyed reading them.

But I really liked the Linna coat and thought it would be a good pre SWAP challenge, and handy for choir and other serious occasions.

So a bit like Burda pattern sheets the pattern pieces are overlapping on pattern sheets in the centre of the magazine. The LMV sheets are quite small so each piece is in several parts. Seam allowances are not included. (So I need to remember to add them).

The annotations are a bit different to Burda, so it took a little while for me to work out actually where the pattern pieces were on the sheet and how three bits (all in different directions) came together to make piece A (the front). I'm hoping it's going to be a little faster now I've got my eye in and I will carry on another day with the tracing.
There was one point where I was so baffled I considered abandoning it, so glad I persevered even if its made my head hurt a bit.

My coat is going to be black, so I expect it'll be quite a frustrating project all along the way. Let's see how it goes.

Mixed prints Style Arc Ivy finished

Now its finished I love the Ivy knit top from Style Arc in mixed print fabrics.

Its an oversized fit with dropped shoulders, so if you like a neater fit (or like to wear the new wider bottoms I'd suggest sizing down).

Style Arc Ivy top

I'm going to sew up the Style Arc Ivy top in two different prints for the combining prints contest on The Sewing Place.

Link to the Combining Prints Contest here

It has been cut out a while but I've not had time/energy to sew it up.

Here's the two fabrics I chose

I've picked the floral stripe for the front and sleeves, with the leopard print for the back, cuffs and neckband. I will get sewing this week and share on Doris the Dummy once done.

Wardrobe Musings

Wardrobe Musings

I love sewing co-ordinated collections, and I like to sew multiple garments with the same colour thread on the machines (sewing machine, overlocker and coverhem). If you read the blog much, you can see that from the sidebar.

However this approach can mean that when something wears out and its not the colour I'm currently sewing I don't sew a replacement garment and suddenly a colourway is trickier to wear as I have odd wardrobe holes.
I also have items for 'mending' or alterations which sit about in the sewing room for long periods of time.
In practical terms this annoys me as I'm not using the garments I have nor replacing the worn out ones. So maybe a bit more discipline is in order.

But sewing is a fun activity and too many rules make it less of a hobby and more like work.

It actually only takes a few minutes to rethread all the machines, so no idea why that's such a big deal for me.

I suppose the fact that my long navy cardigan (above) wore out and isn't available makes me more likely to pick an alternative, but sometimes I just want a navy cardigan (and this time with pockets please!)

Who knows what I will share next on the blog, because I don't think I do!!

Woven and knit top

Burgundy woven front, jersey back top.

I was inspired by this style of top which has a woven front but a stretchy jersey back.

I used New Look 6420 as my starting point. I cut up a size and flared out the hem. In the end I kept the extra size in the sleeves, but removed most of the extra added in the body as it was very loose.

I would definitely sew this again, its a great way of using woven fabrics in a dressy t-shirt. And I know it will get a lot more wear in my lifestyle than a blouse, plus the comfort of the jersey back is wonderful.

Sewing With A Plan (SWAP) 2020 rules announced

The SWAP rules for 2020 have been published! As you have probably noticed I love SWAP (and even won it once) so am of course deep in the throws of planning my next collection.

Link here

RULES:
Your Perfect Vision - SWAP 2020
11 pieces, in two groups:

• 9 or 10 that may coordinate (be worn together) to form outfits
• 1 or 2 that MUST coordinate (be able to be worn with all of the others)  (1 if you make 10 other pieces, 2 if you make 9)
• no required garments
• no required colors
• You may include one garment that is knitted, crocheted, or handwoven

SWAP sewing will begin December 26th, and all garments must be finished by April 30th, 2010. Pattern fitting and cutting may be done whenever you're ready.

You may include 1 garment you had already sewn prior to the rules announcement and 1 purchased ready-to-wear garment, or 2 pre-sewn garments made prior to the rules announcement. (I encourage either of these options, as integrating your SWAP sewing with your current wardrobe increases how versatile your self-sewn clothing will be). In addition, you may include one additional garment that is sewn after the rules have been posted and before the official start SWAP sewing date of December 26. If you include these three garments, that gives a total of eight more to be sewn before SWAP ends, for a fairly reasonable 2 per month.

You must choose a theme for your collection to act as a focal point -  something that inspires you and will help give your SWAP wardrobe a cohesive "feel"; it could be a verbal phrase, a photo, a location, an artifact, or even an accessory (like a scarf). You must post what you have chosen as your theme.

You must include, as part of making one (or more) garments, a technique that both stretches your skill set and is something you have been wanting to learn. For example: someone who is a beginner might choose zippers, someone who is further along on their sewing journey might choose Hong Kong seam finishing or welt pockets, someone who loves embellishment might try making an Alabama Chanin style reverse applique garment, etc....

For the purposes of this SWAP, a sewn "garment" is one that consists of more than one pattern piece, stitched together. A poncho (one piece with a hole for the neckline), or a wrap (one piece of fabric) are not. Some knitted or crocheted garments are made in one piece, but involve careful shaping, so they count as garments.

I am planning to sew a collection based around the colours in this beautiful piece of silk I've been 'saving' since 2010.

And it'll hope give me more things to wear with my Zippy Jacket from January, though it may not actually be part of the collection.

Wearing the Sage and Purple SWAKOP

I managed to take some photos of me wearing the sage and purple SWAKOP pieces. Some didn't come out for some reason so I don't have all the combinations I tried, however I think it gives a good idea.

Pink New Look 6735 top, with floral skirt  (details here)  badly creased after wearing to work all day. I added a purchased stretchy belt.

Purple Style Arc Molly top and Sage skirt based on Simplicity 8175 view B, though with the front cut on the fold, pockets omitted and elastic waistband casing instead of the shaped waistband.

Dark purple trouser suit in a stretch woven, jacket uses Wendy Ward's Kinder Cardigan and the trousers are  New Look 6216. Pink top as before. 

Same top and trousers but cardigan made from a blanket, adapted from Prima Pattern from November 2010.

I switched the belt on the Kinder Cardigan to tie in with the sage trousers from New Look 6216.

Sage top and skirt worn together as a dress look with a different purchased belt. Top from New Look 6735 and skirt adapted from Simplicity K8175 view C (with pockets and waistband omitted and elastic waist added).
Below same skirt worn with pink top and purple Kinder jacket.

The photos of me wearing this Style Arc Nina were all blurry so here's the hanger shot.

Reminder of all the pieces.

I'm a UK size 18 and being post menopause I'm struggling now with the belly fat. I still think I deserve nice clothes though so I don't let that put me off. Hopefully I can make some better choices on eating and exercise and turn that around going forwards.

Inspired by.... contest - 1.10. - 31.10.2019 on The Sewing Place

Over on the Sewing Place, there is a contest called 'Inspired by'.

Did you see something on the internet/in a shop widow/in a magazine/anywhere really...you can’t get out of your head. Can’t find it in your colour, price group, shape, size? It might be a dominating detail you’d like to recreate, it might be a whole outfit. If the answer is yes, this is the contest for you.

For a long time I didn't think this was a contest for me so just carried on sewing my SWAKOP pieces.
However inspiration has struck, in the form of tops with a woven silk front and jersey back.
Here's a few inspiration pieces.

I thought I'd give a new pattern* a try with some slightly less expensive fabric of a similar drape, before cutting into my silk print.
(* I love my TNT patterns but want to extend my repertoire slightly.)

I'm trying top A in size L. The pattern does warn that this is sized for stretch knits only, but that's why I'm going to try it first! I'm going for something like the emerald green style above where the whole of the front is the woven, and the whole of the back a knit.

Peggy Sagers has a video on this idea which looks to work quite well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jB3YST2j1LY

My test version is in a burgundy print with a plain burgundy back, see if it works!