Stitcher's Guild Sewing Forum - Expected Down Time

 DragonLady wrote on Saturday morning

The server SG is sitting on has been experiencing some intermittent issues, and is considered too old to be worth updating.  So, I'm going to ask our hosts to migrate our account to a new model this week.

Hopefully, we'll only be down about 24 hours, as that's how long it usually takes DNS to update their records.

Just letting everyone know so you can all plan to stock in some board games, a good book, some new fabric, and a stash of your favorite beverage to take the edge off the withdrawal symptoms.

http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php?topic=27143.new#new

I wonder which day it will be on this week?
Hopefully there won't be too much of a meltdown in the online sewing world!

---

And it back up again, though fairly recently I think as not a lot of new comments to read!

SWAP 2017 Patterns - Trousers (pants) pattern

I am planning four pairs of trousers for the SWAP. To make my life simpler I though I would use the same pattern for all of them.
I do best with Burda trousers and their normal draft is closer to my shape. I still need to do some alterations but they are much less extensive than for the North American draft used by Big4.
Currently I'm in plus size (46) and although I'm losing weight it is a slow process.

I went through a lot of my Burda magazines (I have multiple years worth) and pulled out any interesting trouser patterns. I've then reviewed these again and think that I am going to go with Burda Magazine August 2010 # 137 (08/2010-137), which is a wrap front trouser from the plus section.
I like that I could make a wrap pair, but I could also use two of the normal fronts and make some more classic trousers from the same pattern.

If you love this style but don't have the magazine you can get it as a download from the UK and US sites
http://www.burdastyle.co.uk/product/trousers-with-front-pleat-plus-size-08-2010-137/880594
http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/wrap-pants-plus-size-082010

I shall need to trace mine off the magazine.

SWAP 2017 Patterns - A tee shirt

I have been considering thinking about the tee shirt pattern I want to use for SWAP 2017.
For super easy just cut out and sew without looking back then my all time favourite pattern New Look 6735 is the way to go.

I have used this pattern a great many times and it is rare because I know the number off by heart. It is so popular is was one of the PR Best Patterns in 2008 and is still in print now. I love this pattern and would recommend it to people wanting to make tees.

I think if I did use this again I would slightly reduce the scoop of the neckline to make it slightly less revealing as I think this would protect against gaping at the neckline if I find I have lost weight. A slightly higher neckline would also work well for me to showcase some of my larger necklaces as they could contrast against the fabric.

Alternatively I could revisit the Kirsten Kimono Tee, though this only has cap sleeves.

This is a free pattern and very simple and quick to sew so ideal at the end of SWAP when trying to get some pieces completed against the clock when sewing has not gone to plan. I have altered my version of the pattern considerably making the neckline higher at the back, scooped at the front and narrower at the sides. I've also curved the sides more and flared out at the hipline.

I have also been looking at the Breton Tee from the Great British Sewing Bee book 'from Stitch to Style' though I have not tried this yet. It looks a similar shape to the Kimono tee but with optional long sleweves which I do want. I own the book but have not traced this off (yet).

A fourth option would be to go for something raglan sleeve. I have many options here
- NewLook 6230 (which I have found after a bit of a search)

- the Santa Monica Tee from Textile Studio Patterns (if I can find it), this is a lovely shape and I would recommend it.

- a Burda magazine pattern that I have not traced off (Burda 02/2013 #127) This has some interesting detail with the gathering.

- and this free pattern in Women's size L
itsalwaysautumn easy-tee-raglan-pattern

I think I will go with the New Look pattern now I have found it as New Look often works well for me.
Going through the pattern I found two other patterns, one from Prima Magazine and one from Love Sewing Magazine the Boyfriend Sweatshirt, so its obviously a style I am interested in mastering. I love the way you can vary the sleeves and neckline for a casual look or go one colour for something very classic.

SWAP 2017 Patterns - Tie neck blouse

The rules this year say

PATTERNS: A minimum of 3 and a maximum of 8 patterns can be used. Two or three items will repeat but the garments don’t need to be identical. Use your imagination. Designed to develop TNT patterns.

Which suits me as I like to make several things from one pattern as it simplifies the fitting process. I have not firmed up all the patterns yet, but there is one I think I am sure about (I've not yet tried getting the pattern pieces cut out of the chosen fabrics).

A few posts ago I shared Simplicity 1784

Now here I am thinking about using View A the tie neck blouse for both the ivory eyelet and the teal with a silver stripe. I think they would both be very different but also quite versatile. I will need to check it is wide enough at the hips and through the biceps.

SWAP 2017 - more fabric photos

Here are some more fabric photos showing the tweed jacket fabrics a little more in close up

Click on the picture to see it full size. The lighter tweed has loads of colours in it including black, brown, ivory, burgundy and some small touches of a teal blue.

The darker tweedy fabric has more of a boucle finish to it on a dark brown ground, with lots of burgundy, claret and teal in it.

The colours in this SWAP are a lot more muted then the bright red I used in the SWAP last year.

And finally here is the ivory eyelet which I hope will make a pretty blouse.

SWAP 2017 Plan - with sketch and fabrics

Ruthie Wears the Pants!

(SWAP rules are here)


 I decided that this year no more skirts in the SWAP, sure they are easy to fit and sew and I do wear them, but I wear trousers more. I've come up with a collection that I think would work for me mostly for work for 8 or 9 months of the year, as is in the early Autumn and late Spring and with a variety of coats on top in later Autumn, through the Winter and the early part of the Spring.
I will style these with my collection of brogue shoes, leather bags and costume jewellery and I've chosen colours I love. I have all the fabrics in the resource centre and am really happy about using them.

For the Layers (Over) I am choosing two different tweed fabrics which include multiple colours, one is lighter, one is darker but they work with the same deep plain colours. Patterns not chosen yet, but I think I will do two different jacket patterns. However I may reuse patterns I have used before. I will add linings but not do any french style quilting or anything like that.

For the Bottoms (Lower) I am going only for trousers. These are likely to be all variations of the same Burda pant, but I might branch out to two. These are all plain dark colours (I have heavy hips/thighs) and those are black, chocolate, burgundy and teal.

The rest of the pieces will be Tops (Upper). Three of them will be tees from my favourite TNT tee pattern, though I might add some variations, or just go super plain. The plain tees will be black, chocolate and a claret colour.
There will be two tie neck blouses from the same pattern, one in a rich teal with silver stripes and the other in an ivory broderie anglaise (eyelet the americans call it).

Black is not really in my palette, however I need a few black pieces for the choir I sing in, and they make a good base for many other things. I will add a necklace or scarf to lift the colour when it is near my face. I have some necklaces I love which I think would work really well against a plain backdrop.

All of the things can be worn in any combination though I think some of the combinations will need a co-ordinated scarf or necklace to link them (and the jackets will help with this). I might even have fun with my beading supplies making some new necklaces.
(However in this SWAP not everything does have to go with everything so it isn't a big problem)

Top Row L-R
Multi coloured tweed for jacket, ivory broderie anglaise (eyelet) for blouse, multi coloured tweed for jacket
Centre Row L-R
Black jersey for tee, brown jersey for tee, claret jersey for tee, teal stripe woven for blouse
Botton Row L-R
Black trousers, brown trousers, burgundy trousers, teal trousers.

I do have some options where I could switch out the burgundy fabric trousers for some faux leather ones in the same colour, the chocolate trousers for some stretch jumbo corduroy ones. That would take things away from the work wardrobe though so I'll try not to do that. It is great though that I have so many options with this palette.

I've been really restrained on the prints this time as I've gone for more colours. I suspect once the machines are threaded up a few extra print jersey tops will also get sewn up and maybe some plain cardigans too (probably one print top and one cardigan in each colourway knowing me) however I will try to stay true to the plan.

One thing I have found very boring on past SWAPs was sewing a lot of items in the same colour so I am hoping that this approach will help keep things fresh for me as I can move on to the next colour when I get bored.

Fire surround makeover

I've been watching the UK TV series House Doctor, where an American woman makes over British houses which are failing to sell. In many of these she paints the dark brown fire surrounds some funky colour. The TV is to the right of the fireplace and I kept thinking 'grrrr fireplace' whilst watching the show.
Now I don't want to sell my house and I don't want a loud colour on my fireplace BUT I did want it to not be dark brown.

(Here's the fireplace before painting, but after I had removed the decorative swag effect with a claw hammer and pliers :-) That was really therapeutic )
I suspect this was orginal from when the house was built in 1986. The previous owners had painted out the dark brown in other places (e.g the stair trims) but since they had dark brown leather sofa and dark brown wooden furniture in the living room the fireplace obviously worked for them.

(I undercoated with Dulux Trade Supergrip Primer, expensive but works really well)

I have a 'wheat' coloured sofa and lots of Ikea beech furniture (dining table, dining chairs, armchairs cabinets and bookcases - you can see the edge of the cabinet in the top picture) so the dark brown fireplace looked rather out of place.

Sofa which is opposite the fireplace.

After one coat of Dulux Quick Dry Satinwood in Natural Hessian (a slightly brown shade of neutral)

And after two coats. In the camera flash it isn't quite so apparent that it is slightly darker than the lower wall, and it does stand out still.

I L-O-V-E the fact that it is not dark brown anymore. I shall dress it, though probably with fewer knick knacks than before.

How to decide what clothing to keep

I have lots of clothing. It is in several sizes, some of it is old, some handmade, some more recent. It covers various seasons. I keep on sewing because I enjoy it, but also I suspect because I've not quite got things where I want them yet.

I would like to have sort through of the wardrobe, and would like to develop some criteria for the process. I would also like to fill any gaps I have in the wardrobe for specific activities.

Here are some of the things I have thought of so far

- Does the garment fit, or if only slightly tight, may it fit shortly? (I am actively losing weight though slowly)
- Is the colour of the garment flattering to my personal colouring? (Or needs to be kept for another reason e.g. choir/work/sports team etc)
- If the item has a print or texture, is that flattering to my scale and consistent with my personality?
- If it does fit, is flattering and suits my aesthetic, what outfits can I make with it and where would I wear them? (If it doesn't have companion pieces then these might be wardrobe 'holes'.)
- Does it need special footwear, underwear or hosiery, and if so do I have it and would I wear it?
- Does it need special care and if so am I prepared to take the time to do that?
- Have I worn it recently or if not can I realistically imagine an event in the near future where I would wear it?
- Am I only keeping it because I need to have an X (insert garment here) for an activity but actually I am not happy with it when I have to wear it? (This needs flagging onto a list for replacement with something I would prefer.
- Is there a wardrobe 'hole' which needs filling, and if so what is it?
- Can I get dressed for all of the following - smart work meeting, normal work day, dress down work day, weekend, hiking, travel, sleep, gardening/DIY, party, trip to the pub etc?

Good post on this topic as always from Imogen from Inside Out Style Blog
6 Simple Rules for Cleaning Out Your Closet

And some more links to posts from Recovering Shopaholic
First Impression Test
The Keep or Purge Question
Paring down a large wardrobe
Closet Downsizing
Konmari in the Closet

SWAP 2017 Official Rules

The rules for SWAP (Sewing With A Plan) are up on Stitchers Guild. They have been devised by an anonymous SWAP Coordinator and are different to previous years.

No purchase necessary anywhere; this contest is open to anyone with a needle and thread, regardless of budget or availability of items.  Just jump in and join the fun.

When SWAP first started the emphasis was on building a wardrobe of coordinates using a strict formula of six tops, four bottoms and one jacket, with all pieces working together. Over time other combinations have been used in the rules.

As we are primarily a sewing board, in recent years the emphasis has been shifted to the sewing aspect, with less emphasis on wardrobe or coordination of garments within the SWAP.

 A blend of sewing and wardrobe planning enhances garment sewing. The point of sewing clothes is to gain freedom from the limitations of ready to wear in terms of color, style and personal fit. Having garments in styles, colors and shapes that flatter, that fit well is the best solution to the old lament, “I have nothing to wear!”.  Having your garments coordinate maximizes your investment of time and money in producing them.

I’ve read the discussion and tried to reflect your desires in the plan.

The basis is taken from the original SWAP plan, but more functional. If you shift one top over to be a second layer you expand the versatility of the group. Now you have 5 tops x 4 bottoms, 20 outfits. Add layer one and it goes to 40. Use layer two and you have 60 options. If by some chance you can wear layer one and two together you have a potential of 80 outfits from the 11 garments. I've expanded on this.

2017 Less is More SWAP Rules

Eleven garments divided between Upper, Lower and Over pieces. These are tops and dresses; bottoms; and layers, all defined later. There are minimums and maximums in each category, to provide balance and variety. You decide the final distribution.

Upper: Minimum 3, maximum 5.
Lower: Minimum 3, maximum 5.
Over: Minimum 2, maximum 5. No more than ½ may be outerwear.

You decide how many of each, within the numbers above, to total 11 garments.

Your twist: Each garment in a category must work with at least half of the garments in each of the other two categories. Example 5 Upper, 3 Lower, and 3 Over.  Each upper would need to work with 2 Lower and 2 Over garments.

ROGUE garments. Two dresses may be “rogue” in that they won’t need to work with Lower garments. They still need to work with Over pieces per the rules above. Obviously if you want 5 dresses 3 would need to be styles that work with what you choose as Lower pieces.

This is actually easy to figure out, but I can explain it later if needed.

I’m sort of redefining the categories a bit and reassigning some garments, such as pinafore/jumper garments, as the layering category is expanded this year. I think this will work nicely for us.

Upper: Tops, shirts, tunics and dresses, etc. intended to cover the upper part of the body but may extend to the floor. Does not have legs. Not primarily intended as overlayers.

Lower: Bottom garments, such as skirts, pants, shorts, leggings, etc. intended to cover the lower part of the body. If it has legs it is always a Lower, so a jumpsuit would be here.

As always, these categories need to avoid being obscene if worn without another layer, as defined by your lifestyle. Remember, there will be photos!

Over: Garments you layer over Upper or Lower garments. This might be a cardigan, vest, suiting type jacket etc. Pinafores and jumpers(American definition) will be Over or layer garments. It also includes outerwear, which are top layers such as parka, heavy coats, raincoats, etc. Outerwear are garments worn to protect from the elements and are frequently removed when one arrives at a destination as opposed to a suit jacket or cardigan which is part of an outfit and you leave on unless it gets hot. There are limits on outerwear.

 If these garments can also be worn alone, that is fine.

NEW: Because the number of layers is expanded and due to current fashion, layers can also be sheer materials, such as lace or eyelet. If Over pieces can also be layered together over other pieces, that is fine.  Having pinafores in this category is also new this year.

PATTERNS: A minimum of 3 and a maximum of 8 patterns can be used. Two or three items will repeat but the garments don’t need to be identical. Use your imagination. Designed to develop TNT patterns.

KNITS: You may include up to 4 crocheted, hand or machine knit garments.

This plan rewards simplicity. The more you coordinate the less trouble you will have getting finished. The more complex you get with your garment types and color choices the more planning you will need to do to pull it off. I highly recommend working it out on paper. With this you will be choosing your difficulty level. Simple is easy to pull off.

You won’t be sewing any orphans or 11 of one category, but it is possible to create different groups in different colorways with more planning. It’s also tricky to make this work with both after 5 garments and athletic wear. I know it’s not the best plan for everybody but that one doesn’t actually exist. I also assume that this is not all the sewing you will do this year.

You may use one previously sewn item, completed by November 5th, when the Rules were posted.

You may make 2 “Early Bird” garments, begun on or after November 5th, when the Rules were posted and completed prior to December 26th, the official start of sewing.

You may use one purchased item, bought at any time through April 30th, 2017.

 If you like, one garment may be refashioned. It will replace your previously sewn item or purchased item, which ever you use as your starting point.

The above are tools; use them to your advantage!

Sewing will begin December 26th, your time, and all garments must be finished by April 30th, 2017.  Muslins, pattern fitting and fabric cutting may be started whenever you are ready.

"Sewing" is a blanket term; you may sew, knit, crochet, weave...whatever works.

Photo information to follow.

Finally, this year, the individual threads are optional, and should only be posted to by their authors so the moderators don't have to monitor them every day. At the top of your first post please put something similar to this: NO comments here please! Put all comments on the SWAP Discussion Board. Thank you. This will make it easier on the Mods.

As before, individual fitting issues or other such discussion should be posted on the "individual projects" board:

PS: It's still the 5th my time for many hours but the date stamp might not reflect it. I couldn't change the time for me.  :) Also, I know this is long. I wanted to try to clarify as much as I could to help cut down the questions for you. I can do a little cheat sheet chart later if you like.

I had sketched an old style plan of 4 pairs trousers, 6 tops and 1 jacket which went with everything, so will need to rethink that. If I am sticking with jacket, top and trousers as my garment types then I need at least one more jacket or cardigan or other layer piece to stick to the plan.

Upper: Minimum 3, maximum 5.
Lower: Minimum 3, maximum 5.
Over: Minimum 2, maximum 5. No more than ½ may be outerwear.

I have particularly embraced the 'Column of Colour' idea which I have come across in multiple places, though really well explained (as always) by Imogen on insideoutstyleblog.com

Here's an example wardrobe she created in 2013 which wouldn't quite fit into the rules, but is not far away.

Pewter Accessories

I had a trip out to the Clarks Outlet today and bought this pewter and black bag and pewter shoes with black soles and laces.

Interestingly when comparing them at home to things in my wardrobe I can see that although a sort of silver colour, this pewter has a slight warmth to it which blends as well with taupe and stone as with grey which surprised me a little. It also works really well with a lovely scarf I have from Mint  which mixes black, grey, taupe and ivory together.

I can see them worn with either the grey checked trouser suit or the taupe trouser suit, or maybe with the charcoal pinstripe trousers and a warm pink sweater.

The little wallet thing hanging off the bag strap (see top photo) is driving me a bit crazy though, so I think that will get removed. This is the second bag I've bought which had one of these - that was a matte gold one in the summer - and I have no idea why you would want it hanging on the outside of the bag, any ideas?

Machine stitched Christmas Cards

I've been making Christmas cards, either for the next Craft Fayre if it is before Christmas or for use myself at Christmas.

So far there are only two designs, Christmas trees and Gingham hearts. I use a template for the trees and roughly cut them, the hearts are freehand, and every one is different. I like that it gives them a bit of character.
I hold the shape in about the right place with my fingers then stitch it on with a sharp sewing machine needle and red thread (or whatever matches the card). I snip the threads and put with an envelope.
The card is A5 card manually folded in half.

 I've made more of the trees and fewer of the hearts.

Dyeing things green

I really loved the green pieces I have added to the wardrobe, so decided I would overdye some items with dark green Dylon machine dye.

The items I chose were
- some bright lime green jersey fabric - viscose (rayon)
- 2 beige pairs socks and 1 light green pair socks - cotton & elastane
- a light grey marl camisole
- a pair of light grey marl leggings
- some mid grey (black and off white) trousers in a polyester mix

I absolutely love the trousers, and they work fantastically with the tweed jacket I made in sewing class many years ago.

The leggings and cami will be great when I want a dark green underlayer under something or tucked into my long or short green suede boots with the matching green socks.

And the jersey fabric is a more wearable colour I could make into a top to wear with this leaf print skirt.

So whilst I would've liked the leggings/cami/socks a darker shade of green I think it was successful.

Monday Market Fabric Stall - recent purchases

I wanted to share my latest fabric purchases from Tony who runs a fabric stall on Chesterfield open air market on a Monday.

If you'd like to see Tony's lovely fabrics he is available as follows:

Monday, Chesterfield, Derbyshire

Wednesday, Newark, Nottinghamshire

Friday, Lichfield, Staffordshire

on the open air market of each town from 7am - 5pm

Top Left - 3m of lining fabric bought last week. This was £1.99 a metre and will work well for lining jackets and skirt.
Bottom Left - 3m of tie dye brown jersey bought last week. This was £2.99 a metre and I plan it to be leggings and tops.
Right - 3m of a wonderful jaquard fabric in black, dark brown and medium brown which I bought on Monday. This was £3.99 a metre and I bought all that was left. This will be a jacket which hopefully will work with black and brown separates. There would be enough over for a straight skirt and maybe even a bag, though I would not wear them all together.
I think I would use the jacket from New Look 6082 for the leaf woven jaquard.I wonder when I will get round to sewing it up?

The leaf is my favourite motif so I love fabrics which use it, particularly in my particular colour palette.

Simplicity 1784 Wardrobe Pattern

I've dug Simplicity 1784 out of the pattern section of the Resource Centre as I want to try sewing something that is not in a knit fabric and is suitable for work (I have an office based job).

I dislike the original colourway used in this very much, so I am mostly trying to tune that out and imagine brown, rust, burnt orange, teal etc instead - easier when greyscaled!

I'm not loving the skirt so much but could imagine wearing the jacket, trousers and blouse for a slightly more feminine yet still practical look.
I have not scouted for fabric yet but I am sure the fabric section of my resource centre has something suitable.

Here's the original image with the colours I dislike, though great for someone with strong and cool colouring (not me!)

My 'resource centre' has a plentiful supply of fabrics, so my aim is to use these resources where I can. I decided that the concept of a resource centre is about using the resources, whereas for me the 'Stash' sounds like something I am hoarding. Since I made that decision to change how I think of my patterns and fabrics I've made quite a lot of charity items, a few things for friends, allowed my mum to take some she wanted and sewn a lot for myself from the resources. I am still buying but perhaps a bit less.

Burda 10-2008-132 Corduroy trousers reworked

I made these corduroy trousers in 2009 - on hanger in 2009 (3 houses ago).

I didn't record it but I'm pretty sure I used Burda 10-2008-132, as the other pair of trousers made at the same time with the same styling did use that pattern.
Something went a bit wrong with them at the time and they did not fit the cotton print waist facing. So as I was trying to meet a deadline for a PR contest I just put some pleats in the front and called it done. They looked like this.

The whole wardrobe came 4th in the PR Wardrobe Contest but I was not happy with these trousers.

I must admit I don't love the corduroy trousers which came out rather shapeless (far right), so they are going to have a makeover. They are very comfortable but definitely look like they should be worn by a Cheshire farmer with his wellies and coat which was not quite the look I was going for.

So not quite 7 years later I have actually got round to it! I changed the side invisible zip from a pale blue one which was a bit too obvious to a darker blue one. It still doesn't match exactly but is a good depth of colour and insrted nicely.
I cut a straight waistband from scraps with a seam at the side, removed the front pleats I had added and sewed the waistband on, adding a tab with buttonhole and a button. They fit quite well (as I'm a bit fatter then than now). And here I am wearing them with the the teal poloneck (turtleneck) from the 2013 SWAP.

 With top tucked in so you can see the waistband and shape.

With top out as I think I need this for proportion.

I'm pleased with these and can see me wearing them through the Autumn and Winter.
If I manage to lose some more weight they may need another remake!