PR Sewing Bee Round 2 ; Zippers

2019 Sewing Bee - Round 2: Sew a Garment with Zipper(s) being the primary focus.
I was initially overloaded with ideas of what I could do with zippers. I then checked my stash of zips and fabrics and couldn’t work out how to get any of them to be my vision. I went to my local fabric store which had some fabrics which appealed and a strip of zipper tape with no slider or stopper. I put these with my stash zips and used them for the garment.

I decided I wanted to use different types of zips on my garment, and use them both in functional and decorative ways.
The main body of the jacket is a black and red textured woven fabric. The sleeves are a jacquard knit which reminded me of zipper teeth, the cuffs and back yoke are from another jacquard knit which resembles the stopper at the end of a zipper. I’ve used a long zip for the main closure as well as a strip of zipper tape as piping to emphasize the seam lines on the jacket front. I’ve replaced the pockets on the pattern with zipped pockets of my own design.

Inside the jacket lining, I have included a hidden pocket with a zip which I’ve made large enough for a passport, cards, small wallet or keys etc. I thought this feature would be handy for travelling or being out and about without a handbag/purse.

The jacket is fully lined with a bagged lining.
I also made a detachable zipper flower with a pin on the back. It was really hard to stitch through all the layer of zipper tape with a hand needle and I ended up using pliers. It is probably too much when worn with this jacket, but it would be a fun piece on a plainer garment.

Functional Zippers - used opening zipper, 2 zipped pockets and a hidden pocket.
Decorative zippers - zipper tape used as piping in front seam and also for a flower brooch/pin
Fabric - some inspired by the teeth and stopper of zippers

Pattern Description:
McCall’s 7694: Misses’ jacket and vest: Loose-fitting, lined jacket and vest have front zipper, back yokes, back pleats, and length, sleeve, and pocket variations.
I decided to do the longer body with sleeves (a hybrid of the two views) as longer jackets tend to look more proportional on me. I also decided to use 3 different outer fabrics and 2 different lining fabrics so needed a little checklist of which pieces were to be cut from which fabrics.

Pattern Sizing:
6-22. I measured my bust/waist/hips and was closest to the size 22. However I then measured my high bust which was between 16 and 18, and looked at the finished measurements where the 18 seemed to give adequate ease in View B. As this pattern is described as loose fitting it seems to have quite a lot of ease included. I decided to cut a Size 18 with a few alterations.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes with the merging/adaptations I made.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Mostly yes, there are 8 pages of them including alterations. Because I used parts of two different views and some of my own additions I had to change things around a little.
I would have liked better markings for the bottom of the opening zipper (no marking on tissue but a measurement given in the instructions).

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved that the alterations are included in the instructions and on the tissue as this makes it easier to get a better fit. I also liked the two piece collar and modern vibe.

Fabric Used:
Black and red woven suiting fabric, and two red and black jacquard knits, red polyester lining for the body and red knit lining for the sleeves and yoke.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
High round back alteration
Full arm alteration
Merged two views to get the style I wanted.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This was a challenging garment for me to sew but I would sew it again in a different fabric to change up the look.

Conclusion:
I sew a lot of simple projects and this was a stretch for me.
I made lots of pocket samples and had a previous front jacket I had to scrap due to pocket problems, thankfully the shop had more fabric and zips to try again.
I bought extra fabric on my second trip so am planning a whole capule around this jacket using these fabrics and plain black, plain red.

I'm really glad that I embraced this challenge. It pushed me out of my comfort zone and encouraged me to try new things with zips.

The results of this round are announced on 3rd Feb with the details for the next round being published on 4th Feb.

Kibbe - In terms of Kibbe Natural clothing, I have to admit I chose this pattern for the strong use of the asymetrical zipper not necessarily the silhouette, however as its loose fitting with an open neckline and fairly long I think its not too bad for a Natural.

Colouring - There are some reds and blacks in my Sophisticated palette which blend quite well with this jacket.

One of the nearly blacks is actually a Signature colour for me as my hair is mostly fairly dark still. To wear the reds I need to wear a red lipstick.

Silk print fabric which co-ordinates beautifully.

Fabric and pattern for PR Bee Round 2

These are the three fabrics I have chosen for the PR Bee Round 2.

I'm using a mixture of the two views (which is really confusing from an instructions angle).
I've cut everything out and done the first few steps. I stopped though when it came to doing the welt pockets quite late in the evening as I was aware I was not very sharp and was unlikely to get a good result.

As far as I know I've not done welt pockets before (despite sewing for many years), and a contest is perhaps not the ideal time for a new pattern and new techniques.

The black and red doesn't work with my SWAP colours/inspiration at all. Being me I had planned (on paper) a whole 6PAC around the jacket, and was going to return to the fabric shop for more yardage to execute it, but I think instead I might mix the project scraps with plain red and plain black already in the stash. Or it may be that once I've finished the jacket I can't bear that colourway anymore and switch to the navy part of my SWAP.

Black and red is a bit strong for my colouring, so will need red lipstick when worn.

Sewing project decisions

I have 3 projects I want to do, but they all use different coloured thread, so I will need to do them in a sensible order to achieve my targets.

Started first but going last is a dark teal skirt made from the scraps of the dark teal trousers.
It is loosely based on Simplicty 8175

Due to fabric shortage I've done the pockets and waistband differently but it will have a similar look once complete. This is cut out (including a lining) and I've made the pockets on the skirt front.

The second project I've started is using denim scraps/old jeans to make a pouf as per the Closet Case Patterns - https://closetcasepatterns.com/fabric-floor-pouf-free-sewing-pattern/

On this one I have cut out all the pieces for the top, bottom and side panels and overlocked the straight edges on all the pieces. I've also learned how to make bias strips and use them to make piping and constructed enough piping using a denim scrap and some cotton washing line to go round the pouf. As far as I know this is my first time making piping despite all the time I've been sewing! I've also made an inner bag from an old blue sheet and sorted all the scraps ready for them to go in as filling.
This project will be second to be sewn up.

My third project is for the PR Sewing Bee round 2, and for this one I bought new fabrics and a new pattern, which is not normally a great thing to do but I had a vision in my head and needed a new pattern to bring it to reality. This is in black and red fabric and will include some new to me techniques so hoping that does go OK!
I'm going to work on that one first in order to achieve the bee deadline.

Learning new things is hard but it helps keep the brain young, so that's what I'm trying to do.

Pattern Review Sewing Bee Rounds 1 and 2

So the winner was announced

https://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=2495292

her entry was beautiful containing a lot of beautifully executed hand embroidery and a detailed story of her inspiration.

https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/153281

I was also happy to see my name in the list of those who scored well enough to move on to the next round.

The next challenge is Round 2: ZIPPERS! Show us how you incorporate them not only for function but also as a creative element in any garment you create for this challenge.

I have a great many ideas in my head about this but I haven't yet distilled it in any form!
A selection here:-

If I could adapt something already in my plan that would be nice and tidy.
Trousers could have zipped pockets and zips at the ankles
Hoody could have a diagonal zip (I have a suitable Ottobre pattern) but is a bit too cardigan-y after the last round.
Anything could have loads of extra pockets
I buy and wear Craghoppers clothing for travelling. Their clothes don't always fit that well but they do have loads of pockets, I really like my culottes with hidden pockets for warm locations.
I have a Saf-T-Pockets pattern that I could use for the pocket ideas.
A jacket or coat would probably make the most statement, but the colour and zips need to show up well in photos which means probably not my dark navy suiting fabric!

Teal print and plain knit top

I managed to cut the front and neckband for this top out of the remnant left from the cardigan.

I placed the strong turquoise motif at the front neck. The neckband came from what was left. The sleeves and back are from a dark teal viscose knit, hopefully the mixed fibres won't be an issue for laundering later. I'm really pleased with how I was able to use up all but the smallest scraps of this pretty print fabric.

However I may not wear the top, cardigan and scarf all together!

This is the scoop neck top from New Look 6735 with the sleeves lengthened slightly. Size 18 with full bicep and forward head alterations.

This is my favourite top pattern of all time, so much that I rebought the pattern as the original was just falling apart.

So I now have 7 teal pieces sewn which has caught me slightly by suprise, though in a good way.
I have a teal lined skirt cut out but no sewing has begun yet! So that's my next project I think.

Teal Knit Trousers

In the pile of teal fabrics I had one of my overdye experiments*. A medium weight cotton knit with a clear right/wrong side seemed too small for anything and a rather odd shape. However once I had space to lay the fabric out neatly I could see one end was cut at an angle but the other end wasn't as bad. I allowed the selvedges (which were just where a tube had been cut open) to fall where they wished and there was enough to just cut out some knit trousers though the pockets have been omitted.

I've used New look 6216 for these.

I omitted the pockets by laying the pocket piece over the front when cutting out.
I changed the construction order to allow me to coverhem the hem flat.
Sew front leg to back leg on the outer leg seams, turn up and coverhem a 1 inch hem.
Sew front to back leg on the inner leg seams. Insert one leg into the other (right sides together) and sew the crotch seam in one line of stitching. sew seams in waistband, stitch one side waistband to top of trousers. Fold and stitch the other edge of the casing, leaving a small opening for elastic. Insert elastic and sew up the gap. Overlock the waistband.

These are very casual trousers ideal for lounging or winter PJs as the fabric is medium weight knit and quite warm. It doesn't have great recovery however so I expect baggy knees and seat may be an issue, however that's fine for lounging!

Here's all the recent teal pieces. I have a top to share next.

*overdye experiments. I enjoy using Dylon machine dyes and will sometimes throw a remnant of fabric in with another dye load, fabrics sometimes go in a few times until they've reached a colour I like. Its been a fun way to take some too bright/too warm/strange colour fabrics and make them work for me. Plain fabrics with high cotton, viscose or linen content can eventually end up as dark teal, dark burgundy or dark chocolate brown, print fabrics are often a lot less successful I have found.

I think this fabric was originally white, and given the depth of colour has probably been through 2 dye loads and is 100% cotton.

PR Sewing Bee Round 1: Sew a Knit Cardigan inspired by the Pantone color of the year - Living Coral

 The inspiration and the implementation.

 Worn open

 Worn Belted

 Back view

 Detail

 Inspiration

 On the dressmaker's dummy

 3/4 shot

Pockets

Kinder Cardigan pattern used for this project.

I'll find out on 23rd Jan if I am through to the next round.

Sew your Kibbe Natural - wearing the Teal Wool Coat

Here I am wearing the teal wool coat I finished before Christmas.

The main body of the coat is in a dark teal wool, with pockets, belt and facing/collar in a slightly lighter teal wool. I've also drafted and added a lining in a dark teal satin which feels very luxurious. It has medium sized shoulder pads.

Here wearing the coat with a hat and scarf knitted for me in previous years by YorkshireLass.

 The back doesn't have much shaping and is brought in by the belt.

The front has no closures but wraps over and ties with the belt. Here worn with a scarf I made in April 2017 and a fun sewing themed brooch I got this year as a gift from a dear friend (thanks E).

The pattern was from the UK women's magazine Prima, which includes a free sewing pattern for subscribers. This was the one from Feb 2015. The patterns are often available on ebay.

Sew Your Kibbe Natural - wearing the Dark Teal scoop neck top and Tweed Jacket

Earlier in January I posted my dark teal top using New Look 6735, here I am wearing it with the new dark teal trousers. It is intended as a base for more interesting layering pieces like the Tweed Jacket from New Look 6416.

Sew Your Kibbe Natural - Burda Teal Trousers Complete

Although Dr T gives lots of Burda trousers (pants) patterns for the Kibbe natural, I decided that I would sew Burda Style 02/2010 #135 in a dark teal woven fabric for my collection.

I finished them today and here are some photos, including me wearing them as well as the usual hanger shot.

You can't see from these that the pockets form a stay across the centre front. This slightly holds the tummy and stops the pockets gaping, it is quite a lot of steps to sew, but does make the trousers hang better over the tummy.

Notes for my future self. These are size 46, sewn with a slightly narrow seam allowance and an extra 1/2" added to the pocket stay and front crotch to accommodate the tummy. There is also 1/2" in the inside front leg tapering to nothing by the knee.

I replaced the curved waistband with a straight one with a double overlap and 2 buttons. This feels nice and secure compared to just having the invisible zip coming into the waist area. I have found that the zip can fail in wear, at the intersection of the waistband and upper body.

I do wonder if they are hemmed slightly too long as there is bunching over the foot where they are laying over the ankle boot, however then when you sit the ankle doesn't get exposed too much. I already removed their original hem allowance and turned up a 6cm hem.

I used a dark blue invisible zipper as the teal ones were too bright and this blended better.

The fit is OK though not perfect. I'm not going to agonise over it too much. If I tried these on in a shop I would be overjoyed and buy them immediately.

I've now got 5 teal pieces complete which is frankly probably enough, but I have a skirt cut out, a dress planned, also another top and the top which needs light coloured thread, so if I do all of those it would be another 4 teal garments.