I have apparently got a reputation for sewing quickly. I’m not sure that’s really true, but if you want to sew more productively these are my top tips.
1 Have a dedicated sewing space.
Currently I have my own house and I have a whole (small)
bedroom as a dedicated sewing room which is great, this hasn’t always been
possible, but whether it is a desk in the corner of the dining room or bedroom,
a table in the hallway or more than that it makes a huge difference if you are
able to leave your sewing machine set up. I’ve seen people use their
conservatory, a guest bedroom, basement, area under the stairwell etc. If you
have to use the dining table (and it needs to be used for meals as well), then have
a cupboard/shelf nearby where you can move the sewing machine, still threaded
for the duration of the meal and then move it back. A portable caddy with a
handle containing scissors, pins, tape measure etc is also handy. Depending on
what you are sewing it is good to have the ironing board and iron set up nearby
also (less critical for knits).
2 Sew TnTs
Develop some TnTs (tried and tested patterns) which you sew
over and over in different fabrics and with minor variations. You have done
your fitting exercise once, and then just cut out and sew. This may seem
boring, but with different fabrics, necklines, sleeve lengths, colour blocking,
embellishments etc garments can look quite different.
3 Sew multiple garments in the same colour thread
Thread up the sewing machine (and if you have them
overlocker/serger and anything extra like a coverhem machine) in a single
colour e.g. brown, ivory, navy etc and then construct several garments using
the same thread. For example if you are short of summer tops, you could cut out
3 tees all from the same pattern, but different prints but that all had an off
white background. Then sew them all up with off white before you have to change
thread again.
4 Keep all your sewing stuff together
Where possible keep all your fabric, notions, scissors,
thread, patterns etc in the same place in the house. If this isn’t possible try
to get similar things together, and is as few places as possible. So for
example when I sewed on a student desk in the corner of the bedroom I had a
bookcase behind me. I kept thread and
other notions in the drawers of the desk, patterns in boxes on the bookcase
with my sewing books and had a folder of swatches for the fabric stash which
was stored in boxes in the loft. Try not to have some fabric under the bed,
some on top of the wardrobe, some in the loft, some in the dining room etc.
Pick a single location for fabric and put it all there. This will save you time
when you want to sew fabric you have already bought. Similarly keep all your
sewing related things in a hobby box or drawer and return them there after use,
that way you can always find your buttonhole chisel or fray check.
I previously lived somewhere which didn’t have great fabric
buying options and tended to stash. I know have fairly easy access to new
fabrics and am trying to sew down the stash a bit more.
5 Have basic supplies on hand
I don’t recommend an enormous stash of supplies (though mine
has built up over many years), but it does make sense to have some basic
supplies on hand of things you regularly use. For me this is things like
invisible zippers, iron on interfacing in charcoal and white, elastic in
several widths. Where you have got quantities of something like ribbon, lace,
buttons, zips, cording etc keep like with like and clearly labelled. Zip lock bags work well to keep things
together and can be tucked neatly into a drawer or box.
6 Sew little and often
Try to sew every day, even if only for a few minutes and use
time away from the machine to read the instructions for a new pattern (fine in
a waiting room), measure and pin a hemline (I like to do this watching TV) or
small items of hand sewing. Please don’t wait until you have a whole sewing day
just do a few minutes whenever you get a chance. After a few sessions you’ll
see fantastic progress and be encouraged to do a little more. Often the day has
more of those little snippets of time, so its good to make use of them rather
than being online again!
7 Use scraps wisely
I like to keep the scraps leftover after cutting out the
garment handy during construction. I use them to test all the machines are
sewing correctly, and to experiment with finishes. So if I want to see how the automatic
buttonhole will look I mock up a bit of waistband/front band, with all the
layers the real one would have and try a few buttonholes, see if the extra thick
edges get stuck, if the buttons go through and so on. For a hem, I’ll mock up
the multiple layers and see whether the cover hem, blind hem, zig zag or top
stitched hem looks better on that fabric. 10 minutes experimenting with hem
finishes on a scrap can save a lot longer unpicking later.
8 Measure and sew carefully
I find it is actually quicker and easier to spend slightly
longer measuring, marking and pinning as this results in less unpicking later.
I also like to sew knits on the sewing machine first, then check I don’t have
any gaps, puckers etc, before putting through the overlocker. I realise this is not necessarily what
everyone else would do, however I don’t want pins anywhere near my overlocker
blades, and early on I had a few times when I chopped off bits I didn’t want to
with the overlocker, using the sewing machine first reduces this a great deal.
(if you are happy sewing directly on the overlocker and don’t have mishaps,
then keep doing it, maybe one day I’ll get brave and do that too, but for now
careful works for me).
9 Hold the ends of the thread when starting sewing
On fine fabric the sewing machine can ‘eat’ the fabric at
the start of the stitching. An easy way to avoid this is to position the fabric
under the presser foot and put the foot down, then using one hand hold the
thread ends with light tension and coming out the back of the machine. Put the
needle down into the fabric and sew a few stitches whilst still holding the
thread, after an inch or so you should be able to let go and sew as normal.
This takes 1 second longer, but avoids having to unpick the mess created from a
thread snarl.
10 Apply elastic with a zig zag stitch rather than the overlocker
When doing an elastic waist treatment where the elastic is
sewn to the top of the garment, folded over and top stitched at the seams, the
directions often advise overlocking/serging the elastic to the garment. This is
really difficult to unpick if it is the wrong length later. To avoid this I try
the garment on with the elastic sewn into a loop and adjust the length if
needed. I overlock just the top of the garment to finish it (usually done
earlier) then quarter and stitch the elastic on with a zig zag stitch. This
doesn’t show at all once folded over but is a lot easier to unpick if the
elastic needs to be changed for some reason.
11 Sew knits and stretch wovens
There is a learning curve to sewing knits, but once you are
comfortable with them, they make for fast and easy projects. There are lots of
books and videos available which help you learn the techniques and they are
often more forgiving of figure variations because the stretch accommodates to
different shapes. I am a huge fan of knits and although I’ve had my share of
wadders am now fairly confident with simple styles in a wide variety of knits. Stretch
wovens, such as bengaline and other stretch fabrics which can be used for
trousers can also be great, a bit smarter than a knit and sewn with a combination
of knit and woven construction methods depending on the style and the fabric. I
find the resulting trousers very comfortable.
12 Sew simple styles
If you want to produce more completed garments, then fewer
details will make for a faster sew. Be careful that easy doesn’t mean
shapeless, a little waist shaping in a knit top or dress will really help, as
do shoulders and waists that sit well on the body. An invisible zip is easy
with the right sewing machine foot and is smoother under other garments than
the bulk (and complexity) of a front fly zip. A simpler style can also be
better when showcasing an amazing fabric, as it allows the fabric to shine.
3 comments:
You certainly get a lot sewn, Ruthie. I think the way that you sew in colour families makes for productive sewing, sewing the same colour for a few garments, then switching to another coordinating colour. This expands your wardrobe immensely and it must reduce the garments that don't go with anything else.
Excellent advice, Ruthie!
What a helpful list of tips -- great advice! Thank you.
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